Side cover transmission, installing: Installation
For tightening torques, see Tightening torque .
Checking the gasket for the side cover
The gasket may be reused once.
Check whether there is a 2 at the top right-hand corner of the gasket. The gasket must be replaced if there is a 2. If there is no number, mark a 2 on the gasket if it is intact.
The gasket has now been reused once and must be replaced the next time the side cover is removed. Make this mark to assist other mechanics.
Always replace the sealing ring which seals against the drive shaft outlet.
Apply some vaseline to the new seal ring so that it remains in the groove in the side cover when installing.
Installing cover
The side cover has 2 different holes. The rear smaller hole and the front rectangular hole. These 2 holes are to guide the gasket for the cover into position during installation. Begin installing the cover by installing the two screws.
Apply a little petroleum jelly to the transmission mating surface.
Install:
- the side cover gasket
- the side cover with the sealing ring
- the remaining screws. Tighten. See Summary of tightening torques for specific components
- the bracket for the studs and the screw loosely on the bracket
- the clamp for the stud and the M8 nut. Tighten.
Clamp the wiring up on the bracket. Use new tie straps.
Lifting the engine and transmission to the horizontal position
Lift the engine to the horizontal position. Check that no hoses or cables are trapped when lifting.
Installing oil pipes
Install:
- the oil pipes to the connections on the transmission. Counterhold on the connections. Tighten. See Summary of tightening torques for specific components
- the M8 nut and the washers for the brackets for the oil pipes. Tighten
- the gear selector cable in the mountings on the side member.
Installing the left drive shaft on the transmission and the wheel spindle
Press in the constant velocity joint housing firmly so that the snap ring engages in its groove in the transmission.
Pull the constant velocity joint to check that the drive shaft is secure. Lubricate the drive shaft splines. Use a small amount of thin oil. Locate the drive shaft in the wheel hub. Install a new screw loosely in the drive shaft.
Installing the sub-frame on the bodywork
Use new screws. Lubricate the screw threads.
Lift up the sub-frame until it is about 150 mm from the side member. Secure the power steering pipe at the front edge of the upper side of the sub-frame. Use the rubber covered clamp. Install the screw loosely. Apply a small amount of soap solution so that it glides into the clamp easily.
Make sure of the following when lifting the sub-frame:
- that the steering shaft joint on the steering gear goes through the hole in the firewall
- that the brake pipe passes the bracket for the exhaust pipe
- that the ball joint pinion for the spring strut aligns in the link arm.
Install the sub-frame's left side with two screws together with the sub-frame's brackets and engine heater, if installed, do not tighten yet.
Use new screws. Lube the screws with oil.
Install the screws for brackets M10, do not tighten yet.
Remove the mobile jack.
Installing the drive shaft on the wheel hub
Lubricate the drive shaft splines. Use a small amount of thin oil.
Locate the drive shaft in the wheel hub.
Install a new screw loosely in the drive shaft.
Align the ball joint pinion for the spring strut in the control arm. If necessary use tools for removal, see Side cover transmission, removing to hold the control arm down.
Position the mobile jack lightly applied under the right side of the sub-frame.
Install the sub-frame's right side together with the sub-frame's brackets.
Use new screws. Lube the screws with oil.
Tighten acc. to: Tightening torque . First tighten the screws on the sub-frame's left side, then on the right.
Tighten the screws for the brackets M10.
Remove the mobile jack.
Installing the cross members on the bodywork
Install the 4 x M8 screws for the support for the center bearing. Tighten.
Tighten the 2 x M8 screws for the propeller shaft center bearing/member.
Install the 2 x M8 screws in the rear member. Tighten.
Installing the front mounting for the exhaust pipe and the cross member
Install:
- the rubber mountings for the exhaust system on the bracket on the sub-frame and the exhaust pipe
- the connector for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) in the sub-frame
- the member. Use 4 x M8 screws. Tighten
- the brake pipe in the mountings in the member
- the clamp for the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring in the member.
Installing the power steering line
Tighten the screw for the clamp for the power steering line at the front edge of the top of the sub-frame. The screw can be accessed from the front if the cable duct is lifted.
Install the screw for the clamp for the power steering line on the right-hand side at the rear edge of the frame.
Press the power steering pipe and the evaporator pipe into the holders on the right-hand side of the sub-frame.
For cars with fuel powered parking heaters
Press the fuel line into place in the holders.
Installing the screws for the engine pads and engine stabilizer brace
Install:
- the M10 screws for the front and rear engine pads. Tighten
- the 4 x M10 screws for the engine stabilizer brace. Tighten.
Installing front suspension components (both sides)
Install:
- a new M14 lock nut (1 on each side) for the ball joint pinion. Counterhold the ball joint pinion while tightening so that the boot does not turn. Tighten. See Summary of tightening torques for specific components
- the link for the anti-roll bar. Use a new M10 lock nut (1 on each side). Counterhold the ball joint pinion while tightening so that the boot does not turn. Tighten. See Summary of tightening torques for specific components . Tighten the drive shaft screw. Counterhold using a screwdriver in the brake disc vents. Tighten. See Summary of tightening torques for specific components
- the soundproofing over the drive shaft (applies to certain versions)
- a new M12 lock nut for the tie rod/wheel spindle.
Check when installing that the track rod is in the same position as noted earlier.
Installing components for the fender liner
Install:
- the support plate and nuts (both sides).
Installing the cable duct
Install:
- the cable duct on the sub-frame
- the parking heater (if applicable) in the mounting in the sub-frame and the fuel line in the mountings.
Removing the lifting beams
Lower the car.
Remove the lifting beams and hooks from the engine.
Installing the lower steering shaft on the steering shaft joint
Align the steering shaft in the joint on the steering gear. Install a new M8 screw. Tighten.
Install the boot and snap ring on the firewall. Check that the bearing in the boot comes into place against the steering shaft.
Installing the boot and snap ring on the firewall
Check that the bearing in the boot is in position. If it has become detached apply a little petroleum jelly or grease to the edge of the boot (around the hole). Press the bearing back down into the boot.
Install the boot on the firewall. Check carefully that the boot and snap ring go into the correct position. Adjust if necessary.
It is essential that the above checks are carried out. Otherwise there may be noise from the transmission/engine and road noise in the passenger compartment.
Installing the coolant hose
Install the connector securing the engine coolant hose to the heater.
Remove the hose clips.
Installing the connector on the transmission
Install:
- the screw for the clamp holding the positive cable on the engine
- the connector from the transmission (press the connector together). Pull it from the transmission.
Installing engine compartment components
Install:
- the charge air pipe to the charge air cooler (CAC)
- the air cleaner (ACL) housing assembly with the intake manifold and connections
- hook the turbocharger (TC) control valve into place in the air cleaner (ACL)
- the upper engine stabilizer brace between the wheel arches. Use 4 x M10 screws. Tighten
- 1 x M12 screw for the engine stabilizer brace/engine mounting. Tighten
- The tie strap for the power steering return line in the mounting lug for the engine stabilizer brace on the right-hand side.
Fill with coolant. Carefully check while reaching operating temperature or test driving that the level remains the same and that there is no leakage.
Topping up the transmission fluid
Oil grade: Only ATF-fluid Dexron III (with G-license).
Transmission oil, Volvo part number 116 1521-8 (1litre), 116 1621-6 (4 litres).
There are 2 different methods when topping up the transmission fluid.
Method 1:
Start by filling with 5.5 liters of oil. Use a funnel with a plastic hose. Fill through the dipstick pipe. Clear up any oil spillage under the dip stick pipe.
Method 2:
Start by filling with 5.5 liters of oil. Use a converted five liter plastic can (see the illustration) This method avoids oil spillage. It also provides a more regular flow when filling.
After changing transmission oil, the transmission's counter for "Transmission oil, change" shall be reset. Use VIDA Vehicle communication to reset the counter.
Installing the battery lead
First read Battery, disconnecting . Connect the battery lead.
Check after assembly
To check the oil level, see Oil level, checking .
Fill with coolant. Carefully check while reaching operating temperature or test driving that the level remains the same and that there is no leakage.
Raise the car.
Check that there is no oil leakage at:
- the connections for the oil pipes on the transmission
- -the side cover
- the side cover around the drive shaft.
Installing the front splash guard
See Sub-frame front, replacing .
Install:
- the splash guard under the engine
- the wheels. See Installing wheels .
Test driving the car
Test drive the car in the same way as before the repair. See Transmission checking/fault-tracing .
For faults other than judder when test driving the car, see Test Drive Form, description .