Gearbox, removing: Removal

WARNING: This page does not describe the selected car, but rather 8 other vehicles, including the 2006 Volvo S80, 2005 Volvo S80, 2004 Volvo S80, 2003 Volvo S80, and 2002 Volvo S80. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

Disconnecting the battery lead

Disconnect the battery negative cable in accordance with Battery, disconnecting .

Removing engine compartment components

Fig 1: Engine Compartment Covers

Courtesy of VOLVO CARS OF NORTH AMERICA.

Only applies to turbo engines, remove:

the torque rod in accordance with: Brake fluid reservoir, replacing
the cover at the side of the air cleaner (ACL) housing (applies only to B5254T4)
the fresh air intake hose
the air cleaner (ACL) housing assembly. Unhook the control valve from the air cleaner (ACL) housing.

Fig 2: Air Cleaner Housing, Vacuum Hoses And Ground Strap

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Applies only to naturally aspirated engines, remove:

the upper torque rod in accordance with Brake fluid reservoir, replacing
the air cleaner (ACL) housing with the intake manifold and preheating hose
the vacuum hoses, 2, from the intake manifold to the control valves
the ground lead between the mounting on the engine and the bulkhead (where applicable).

Removing components from the gearbox

Fig 3: Gear Selector Cable And 999 7077

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Remove:

the gear selector cable, use: 9997077 to detach the ball joint for the cable from the lever
the gear selector cable mounting from the gearbox
the oil pipe from the gearbox. Plug the gearbox and pipe.

Unhook the mounting with the connector for the gearbox from the bracket for the air cleaner (ACL) housing. Disconnect all the connectors.

Removing the gearbox mounting screws

Fig 4: Cable Harness Clamp Screws

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Remove the bracket with the connectors for the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) and the clamp for the cable harness from the gearbox.

Remove:

the screws for the clamp securing the cable harness at the rear edge of the engine
the nut, 1, for the bracket to the cable harness and the coolant hose
the bracket for the air cleaner (ACL) (only applies to B5254T4)
the 3 screws for the gearbox and engine and the 2 screws for the starter motor.

Tie up the cable harness.

Removing the coolant hose from the passenger compartment heater

Fig 5: Coolant Hose In Passenger Compartment

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Clamp the hoses with hose clips.

Place some paper under the inner hose connection to collect any spilled coolant.

Turn the quick-release connector (the inner of the 2 hoses) slightly in the direction of the arrow so that the lock opens.

At the same time, pull the coolant hose straight out of the coolant pipe.

Installing the lifting beam and lifting hook on the engine lifting eyelet

Fig 6: Identifying Lifting Beam And Lifting Hook Installed On Engine Lifting Eyelet

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Position: 9995716 on the wheel arch and directly above the engine lifting eyes on the left and right-hand sides.

Connect 9995460 on the right-hand side of the engine with a clearance of 10 mm. Tighten to light contact on the left-hand side.

Set the wheels straight.

Remove the ignition key and activate the steering wheel lock. Raise the vehicle.

Removing the air baffle and splash guard under the engine

Fig 7: Identifying Air Baffle And Splash Guard Under Engine

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Remove:

both the front wheels
the screws for the splash guard under the engine
the screws for the air baffle.

Press in the catches holding the air baffle and remove it.

Removing the screw for the cable duct

Fig 8: Fuel Line For Heater And Sub-Frame

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Unhook the cable duct from the sub-frame.

Remove the screw securing the mounting for the ground lead in the sub-frame

NOTE: Applies only to cars with parking heaters.

Remove the 3 screws from the heater.

Hang or tie up the heater on the left front wing.

Detach the fuel line for the heater from the holders on the sub-frame.

Removing the cross members from the body

Fig 9: Cross Members

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Remove:

the screws for the crossmember, furthest forward, x4.
the brake pipe from the front cross member
the screws on one side, 2, and undo the others, 2, so that the crossmember is hanging loosely.

Removing the screws and nuts for the engine pads, torque rod

Fig 10: Engine Pads And Screws

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Remove:

the screw, 1, for the front/rear engine pad
the screws for the torque rod.

Measuring the position of the tie rod in the steering gear

Fig 11: Identifying Length Of Track Rod In Relation To Steering Gear Housing

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On one side, measure the length of the tie rod in relation to the steering gear housing. Note the measurement.

Exposing the steering shaft joint

Fig 12: Identifying Screw For Joint Between Steering Gear And Steering Shaft

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Remove the screw, 1, to the joint between the steering gear and the steering wheel shaft.

Press the joint up from the steering shaft.

Detach the cable to the stepper motor/solenoid.

Removing front suspension components (both sides)

Fig 13: Front Suspension Components

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Detach the ABS cable from the bracket in the spring strut on the left-hand side.

Remove:

the screw, 1, for the drive shaft, counterholding with a screwdriver in the brake disc vents
the nut for the ball joint/link arm. Clean the exposed threads outside the nut. Spray using rust solvent before removing the nut.

Remove on the left-hand side:

the link from the anti-roll bar
the tie rod.

NOTE: Counterhold using a Torx TX40 at the ball joint pinion when removing the nut. This is so that the ball joint boot does not turn.

Preparations when removing gearbox

Fig 14: Fender Liner Tied Up To Lifting Beam Using A Retaining Strap

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Remove the 2 nuts from the wing liner. Remove the support plates on both sides.

NOTE: Only left-hand side.

Angle out and tie up the wing liner to the lifting beam using a retaining strap.

CAUTION: Do not forget to protect the front wing.

Preparations for lowering the sub-frame

Fig 15: Identifying Sub-Frame And Tools 999 7076, 999 5562 And 998 5972

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Unhook the link arms from the ball joints on both sides. Use: 9997076 . Fit: 9995562 . Hold the sleeve in place with the ball joint nut.

Bend out the spring struts and detach the drive shafts from the wheel hubs so that the gaiters are not damaged. Hold the spring struts away using a retaining strap to obtain better space when the drive shafts are removed.

Keep the seal on the outer constant velocity joint housing if it falls off.

Remove the screws from the sub-frame support plates (both sides).

Apply: 9985972 together with: 9995972 lightly under the right-hand side of the sub-frame.

Slacken off the screws for the sub-frame on the right hand side. Ensure that the nuts are still secured by at least 5 threads.

Remove: 9985972 .

Removing the right-hand drive shaft

Fig 16: Bearing Cap And Drive Shaft Support Bearing

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Remove the screws to the drive shaft bearing cap and remove the support bearing cap.

Remove the drive shaft by pulling it straight out from the gearbox.

NOTE: On vehicles equipped with AWD the drive shaft runs through the angle gear.

Removing the left-hand drive shaft

Fig 17: Identifying Drive Shaft At Gearbox & Tool 999 5681

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Remove the drive shaft from the gearbox. Use 9995681 .

Lowering the sub-frame

Fig 18: Identifying Sub-Frame Bolts And Mobile Jack

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Position the mobile jack (lightly applied) under the left-hand side of the sub-frame. Remove the sub-frame screws. Lower the sub-frame.

NOTE: Check that the hoses and electrical cables are free and not stretched when lowering. Remove the mobile jack and let the frame hang freely.

Removing bevel gear

Fig 19: Angle Gear Screws

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NOTE: Only applies to vehicles equipped with AWD.

Remove the angle gear screws, 5. Pull the angle gear straight out from the gearbox.

Hang the angle gear up in an oil pipe to the turbocharger or similar for example.

Fig 20: Angle Gear Hung Up In An Oil Pipe To The Turbocharger

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Removing the rear engine mounting

Fig 21: Engine Mounting Screws

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Remove:

the 3 screws
the mounting and the engine pad.

Removing the screws from the torque converter

Fig 22: Identifying Torque Converter Screws

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Remove the 6 screws for the torque converter.

Turn the engine using a socket and ratchet. Pull out the right-hand wing liner slightly so that the crankshaft nut can be accessed more easily. Use a Torx TX50 socket on the torque converter screws.