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Home >> Ford >> 2000 >> Contour SE, 2.5 L, Standard >> Repair and Diagnosis >> External Pages >> Different car >> Section 1979 (Noise, Vibration And Harshness) >> Diagnostic Tests >> Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) >> Symptom Charts

Symptom Charts

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2007 Mercury Mariner and 2007 Ford Escape. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
Symptom Chart - Air Leak and Wind Noise

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Air leak around the door perimeter
  • Loose fit seal
  • PINCH the seal carrier to improve retention on the seal flange.
 
  • Seal installed incorrectly
  • INSTALL the seal correctly.
 
  • Door misaligned
  • ALIGN the door correctly. CHECK the door gaps and fit in the door opening and ADJUST as necessary.
 
  • Scuff plate installed incorrectly
  • INSTALL the scuff plate correctly.
 
  • Seal or seal pin-type retainers damaged
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Air leak around a glass run
  • Door glass misaligned
  • ADJUST the door glass.
 
  • Glass run installed incorrectly
  • ADJUST the glass run. INSERT foam in the glass run carrier.
 
  • Leak path behind a glass run
  • INSTALL foam rope behind the glass run.
 
  • Glass run channel spread wide
  • PINCH the glass run channel to reduce the size of the opening.
 
  • Blow-out clip bent or contacting the door glass
  • ADJUST the blow-out clip or INSTALL a new glass run/blow-out clip molding assembly.
 
  • Glass run damaged
  • INSTALL a new glass run.
  • Air leak at the inner belt line
  • Belt line seal installed incorrectly on the flange
  • ADJUST the seal. (Do not bend the flange.)
 
  • Belt line seal integrated with door trim installed incorrectly (no glass contact)
  • INSTALL the door trim correctly.
 
  • No contact with the side glass
  • ADJUST the door glass.
 
  • No contact with glass runs at both ends of the belt line seal
  • ADJUST the belt line seal or ADD foam at the seal ends.
 
  • Belt line seal damaged
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Air leak at the outer belt line
  • Belt line seal installed incorrectly on the flange (no glass contact)
  • ADJUST the seal.
 
  • Belt line seal does not contact the glass
  • ADJUST the door glass.
 
  • No contact with the glass runs at both ends of the belt line seal
  • ADJUST the belt line seal/ADD foam at the seal ends.
 
  • Belt line seal damaged
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Draft at the inner door handle/speaker opening
  • Hole in the watershield
  • SEAL the hole with a suitable tape.
 
  • Watershield misaligned
  • ALIGN the watershield correctly. INSTALL a new watershield if the pressure sensitive adhesive fails.
 
  • Exterior door handle seal misaligned/damaged
  • ALIGN the seal correctly or INSTALL a new seal as necessary.
  • Wind noise from the exterior rear view mirror
  • Exterior rear view mirror housing misaligned
  • ALIGN with the edges shingled correctly and no gaps.
 
  • Mirror sail gasket folded/misaligned
  • INSTALL with the gasket unfolded and aligned correctly.
 
  • Mirror housing trim cap installed incorrectly
  • INSTALL with the edges shingled to the air flow.
 
  • Air leak through the mirror housing hinge
  • Fully ENGAGE the mirror into its operating position/USE foam to block the air path through the hinge.
 
  • Inner sail trim installed incorrectly
  • INSTALL the sail trim correctly/ADJUST the door trim.
 
  • Inner sail gasket/barrier installed incorrectly
  • INSTALL the trim cover with the gasket/barrier aligned correctly.
 
  • Air path through the wiring bundle/fastener access holes
  • BLOCK the air path(s) with foam/tape.
 
  • Exposed fastener access hole on the mirror housing/sail
  • INSTALL a new cap if it is missing.
  • Air leak around the perimeter of fixed glass
  • Gaps in the adhesive bead
 
  • Air traveling up the windshield molding along the A-pillar
  • INSTALL foam rope the full length of the A-pillar.
 
  • Windshield/backlite misaligned or not installed correctly
  • INSTALL the windshield/backlite correctly.
 
  • Rear hood seal at the base of the windshield misaligned/damaged
  • ALIGN the seal correctly or INSTALL a new seal as necessary.
  • Air leak at the cowl
  • Cowl gasket misaligned/damaged
  • ALIGN the seal correctly or INSTALL a new seal as necessary.
  • Air leak around the liftgate perimeter
  • Loose fit seal
  • PINCH the seal carrier to improve retention on the seal flange or INSERT foam in the carrier.
 
  • Seal misaligned
  • INSTALL the sea correctly.
 
  • Liftgate misaligned
  • ALIGN the liftgate. CHECK the liftgate fit in the body opening and ADJUST as necessary.
 
  • Scuff plate misaligned
  • INSTALL the scuff plate correctly.
 
  • Seal or seal pin-type retainers damaged
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Air leak around the liftgate flip window perimeter
  • Loose fit seal
  • PINCH the seal carrier to improve the retention to the seal flange.
 
  • Seal misaligned
  • INSTALL the seal correctly.
 
  • Glass misaligned
  • ALIGN the glass correctly.
 
  • Seal damaged
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Wind noise from the antenna
  • Shape of the antenna
  • INSTALL an antenna boot or a spiral antenna.
 
  • Air leak around the antenna cable access hole
  • INSPECT the antenna access hole grommet. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Air leak from the closed roof opening panel
  • Seal installed incorrectly
  • INSTALL the seal correctly.
 
  • Roof opening panel glass/door misaligned
  • ALIGN the roof opening panel glass/door correctly.
 
  • Roof opening panel damaged
  • Buffeting from an open roof opening panel
  • Wind deflector inoperative/damaged
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new wind deflector as necessary. REFER to ROOF OPENING PANEL article.
 
  • Wind deflector height incorrect
  • ADJUST the wind deflector higher.
  • Wind noise created by airflow over or behind body panels
  • Fender splash shield misaligned
  • ALIGN the fender splash shield correctly.
 
  • Body panel misaligned (exposed edge)
  • ALIGN the appropriate body panel correctly.
 
  • Hood misaligned (front margin)
  • CHECK the hood gaps and fit. ADJUST the hood as necessary.
 
  • Front grille edge noise
  • APPLY foam in the hollow areas behind the louvers.
  • Wind noise created by the grille opening panel
  • Grille relationship to the leading edge on the hood
  • ADJUST the grille opening panel forward to eliminate the wind noise.
 
  • Sharp edges due to material imperfections
  • REMOVE the sharp edges (no damage to visible surface).
  • Wind noise from the air extractor
  • Air extractor housing seated incorrectly
  • INSTALL the air extractor housing correctly.
 
  • Air extractor housing or flaps damaged
  • INSTALL a new air extractor.
  • Noise from the roof rack
  • Roof rack rails or crossbars loose
  • TIGHTEN the fasteners.
 
  • Roof rack fasteners missing
  • INSTALL the approved fasteners.
 
  • Roof rack crossbars installed backward
  • INSTALL the crossbars correctly.
 
  • Roof rack rub strips partially lifting from the roof
  • APPLY adhesive or fasteners or INSTALL new rub strips as necessary.
 
  • Roof rack gaskets loose or misaligned
  • INSTALL the gasket correctly.
  • Wind noise from the bug shield/exterior windshield sun visor
  • Turbulence created by the location and shape
  • REMOVE per customer direction if it is a dealer installed option.
Symptom Chart-Driveline Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Axle howling or whine - front or rear axle
  • Axle lubricant low
  • CHECK the lubricant level. FILL the axle to specification.
 
  • Axle housing damage
 
  • Damaged or worn wheel bearings or axle bearings
  • CHECK for abnormal wheel bearing play or roughness. Refer to Wheel Bearing Check . ADJUST or INSTALL new wheel bearings as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn differential ring and pinion
 
  • Damaged or worn differential side or pinion bearings
 
  • Transfer case housing or internal gear damage or low lubricant
  • Driveline clunk - loud clunk when shifting from reverse to drive
  • Incorrect axle lubricant level
  • CHECK the lubricant level. FILL the axle to specification.
 
  • Excessive backlash in the axle
 
  • Damaged or worn pinion bearings
 
  • Damaged or worn universal joints (U-joints)
  • INSPECT the U-joints for wear or damage. INSTALL new U-joints as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Loose suspension components
  • INSPECT the suspension for damage or wear. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for the front suspension or REAR SUSPENSION article for the rear suspension.
 
  • Broken powertrain mounts
 
  • Idle speed is too high
  • CHECK for the correct idle speed.
  • Driveline clunk - occurs as the vehicle starts to move forward following a stop
  • Worn driveshaft constant velocity (CV) joint or U-joints with excessive play
  • INSPECT the CV joint and U-joints for a worn condition. INSTALL a new driveshaft or U-joints as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Loose rear axle mount
  • Driveline clunk (front wheel drive [FWD] vehicles) - occurs during acceleration or from cruise to coast/deceleration
  • Damaged or worn inner constant velocity (CV) joint
  • INSPECT the inner CV joint and boot. REPAIR or INSTALL a new CV joint as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS article.
  • Driveline clunk (all wheel drive [AWD] vehicles)
  • Transfer case
  • Interactive torque
  • Clicking, popping, or grinding - occurs while the vehicle is turning
  • Inadequate or contaminated lubrication in the constant velocity (CV) joints
  • CHECK the CV boots and joints for wear or damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS article.
 
  • Another component contacting the halfshaft
  • CHECK the halfshafts and the area around the halfshafts. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Brake components
  • INSPECT the front brakes for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT DISC BRAKE article.
 
  • Steering components
 
  • Suspension components
  • INSPECT the upper and lower ball joints for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for front ball joints or REAR SUSPENSION article for rear ball joints.
 
  • Damaged or worn wheel bearings
  • CHECK for abnormal wheel bearing play or roughness. REFER to Wheel Bearing Check . ADJUST or INSTALL new wheel bearings as necessary.
  • Clicking or snapping - occurs when accelerating around a corner
  • Damaged or worn outboard constant velocity (CV) joint
  • INSPECT the outboard CV joint and boot. REPAIR or INSTALL a new CV joint as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS article.
  • High pitched chattering - noise from the rear axle when the vehicle is turning
  • Incorrect or contaminated lubricant
  • CHECK the vehicle by driving in tight circles (5 clockwise, 5 counterclockwise). FLUSH and REFILL with the specified rear axle lubricant and friction modifier as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn differential (differential side gears and pinion gears)
  • Buzz - buzzing noise is the same at cruise or coast/deceleration
  • Damaged or worn tires
  • CHECK for abnormal tire wear or damage. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Incorrect driveline angles
  • CHECK for correct driveline angles. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Driveline Angles.
  • Rumble or boom - noise occurs at coast/deceleration, usually driveshaft speed-related and noticeable over a wide range of speeds
  • Driveshaft is out-of-balance
  • CHECK the driveshaft for damage, missing balance weights or undercoating. REPAIR or INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary.
 
  • U-joints are binding or seized
  • ROTATE the driveshaft and CHECK for rough operation or seized U-joints. INSTALL new U-joints as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Excessive pinion flange runout
  • CARRY OUT a runout check. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Pinion Flange Runout Check.
  • Grunting - normally associated with a shudder experienced during acceleration from a complete stop
  • Driveshaft constant velocity (CV) joint binding
  • CLEAN the CV joint and INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Loose rear axle mount bolts or suspension fasteners
  • INSPECT the rear suspension and axle. TIGHTEN the fasteners to specification.
  • Howl - can occur at various speeds and driving conditions. Affected by acceleration and deceleration
  • Incorrect ring and pinion contact, incorrect bearing preload or gear damage
  • Chuckle - heard at coast/deceleration. Also described as a knock
  • Incorrect ring and pinion contact or damaged teeth on the coast side of the ring and pinion
  • Knock - noise occurs at various speeds. Not affected by acceleration or deceleration
  • Gear tooth damage to the drive side of the ring and pinion
  • Scraping noise - a continuous low pitched noise starting at low speeds
  • Worn or damaged pinion bearings
  • Driveline shudder - occurs during acceleration from a slow speed or stop
  • Rear drive axle assembly mispositioned
  • CHECK the axle mounts and the rear suspension for damage or wear. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Loose rear axle bolts
 
  • Incorrect or high constant velocity (CV) joint operating angle
  • INSPECT for damage. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn front suspension components
  • CHECK for a loose stabilizer bar, damaged or loose strut/strut bushings or loose or worn ball joints. INSPECT the steering linkage for wear or damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article.
 
  • Driveline angles out of specification
  • CHECK for correct driveline angles. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • U-joints binding or seized
  • ROTATE the driveshaft and CHECK for rough operation or seized U-joints. INSTALL new U-joints as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Binding or damaged driveshaft CV joint
  • INSPECT the driveshaft CV joint and coupling shaft for wear or damage. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
  • Driveline vibration - occurs at cruising speeds
  • Worn U-joints
  • CHECK for wear or incorrect seating. INSTALL new U-joints as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Worn or damaged driveshaft center bearing support
  • CHECK the insulator for damage or wear. ROTATE the driveshaft and CHECK for rough operation. INSTALL a new center bearing support as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Loose axle pinion flange bolts
  • INSPECT the axle pinion flange. TIGHTEN the pinion flange bolts to specification. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Excessive axle pinion flange runout
 
  • Driveshaft is out-of-balance
  • CHECK the driveshaft for damage, missing balance weights or undercoating. CHECK the driveshaft balance. CARRY OUT a driveline vibration test. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Binding or damaged driveshaft constant velocity (CV) joint
  • INSPECT the driveshaft CV joint for wear or damage. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Excessive driveshaft runout
  • CARRY OUT a runout check. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Incorrect lateral and radial tire/wheel runout
  • INSPECT the tires and wheels. MEASURE the tire runouts. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Driveline angles out of specification
  • CHECK for correct driveline angles. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Driveline Angles.
 
  • Incorrectly seated CV joint in the wheel hub
Symptom Chart - Engine Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Grinding noise - occurs during engine cranking
  • Incorrect starter motor mounting
  • INSPECT the starter motor for correct mounting. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to STARTING SYSTEM article.
 
  • Starter motor
  • CHECK the starter motor. REPAIR or INSTALL a new starter motor as necessary. REFER to STARTING SYSTEM article.
 
  • Incorrect starter motor drive engagement
  • INSPECT the starter motor drive and flywheel/flexplate for wear or damage. INSTALL a new starter motor drive or flywheel/flexplate as necessary. REFER to STARTING SYSTEM article.
  • Engine ticking noise
  • Fuel injector
  • Fuel line
  • Oil pump
  • Valve lifter
  • Belt tensioner
  • Water pump
  • Obstruction of cooling fan
  • Engine drumming noise - normally accompanied by vibration
  • Powertrain mount
 
  • Damaged or misaligned exhaust system
  • Whistling noise - normally accompanied with poor idle condition
  • Air intake system
  • Clunking noise
  • Water pump has excessive end play or imbalance
  • CHECK the water pump for excessive end play. INSPECT the water pump for imbalance with the drive belt off. INSTALL a new water pump as necessary. REFER to ENGINE COOLING article or ENGINE COOLING - HYBRID article for the Hybrid.
 
  • Generator has excessive end play
  • CHECK the generator for excessive end play. REPAIR or INSTALL a new generator. REFER to GENERATOR AND REGULATOR article.
  • Pinging noise
  • Exhaust system leak
  • INSPECT the exhaust system for leaks or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM article.
 
  • Gasoline octane too low
  • VERIFY with customer the type of gasoline used. CORRECT as necessary.
 
  • Knock sensor operation
 
  • Incorrect spark timing
  • CHECK the spark timing. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • High operating temperature
  • INSPECT the cooling system for leaks. CHECK the coolant level. REFILL as necessary. CHECK the coolant for the correct mix ratio. DRAIN and REFILL as needed. VERIFY the engine operating temperature is within specifications. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Spark plug
  • CHECK the spark plugs. REPAIR or INSTALL new spark plugs as necessary.
 
  • Catalytic converter
  • Acceptable noise.
  • Knocking noise - light knocking noise, also described as piston slap. Noise is most noticeable when the engine is cold with light to medium acceleration. The noise disappears as the engine warms
  • Excessive clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall
  • Engine cold and at high idle. Using an EngineEAR, pull a spark plug or fuel injector connector until the noise goes away. REFER to ENGINE - 2.3L article for the 2.3L engine, ENGINE - 3.0L (4V) article for the 3.0L engine, or ENGINE - 2.3L HYBRID article for the Hybrid to continue diagnosis.
  • Knocking noise - light double knock or sharp rap sound. Occurs mostly with a warm engine at idle or low speeds in drive. Increases in relation to engine load. Associated with a poor lubrication history
  • Excessive clearance between the piston and the piston pin
  • Knocking noise - light knocking noise. The noise is most noticeable when the engine is warm. The noise tends to decrease when the vehicle is coasting or in neutral
  • Excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft
  • Engine warm and at idle. Using an EngineEAR, PULL a spark plug or fuel injector connector until the noise goes away. REFER to ENGINE - 2.3L article for the 2.3L engine, ENGINE - 3.0L (4V) article for the 3.0L engine, or ENGINE - 2.3L HYBRID article for the Hybrid to continue diagnosis.
  • Knocking noise - deep knocking noise. The noise is most noticeable when the engine is warm, at lower rpm and under a light load and then at float
  • Worn or damaged crankshaft main bearings
  • Knocking noise - occurs mostly with a warm engine at light/medium acceleration
  • Spark plugs
  • CHECK the spark plugs for damage or wear. INSTALL new spark plugs as necessary.
 
  • Carbon accumulation in combustion chamber
  • REMOVE carbon from the combustion chamber.
  • Whine or moaning noise
  • Air intake system
  • CHECK the air cleaner and ducts for correct fit. INSPECT the air intake system for leaks or damage. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Generator electrical field or bearings
  • CARRY OUT a generator load test. REPAIR or INSTALL a new generator as necessary. REFER to GENERATOR AND REGULATOR article.
  • Drone type noise
  • Exhaust system
 
  • A/C compressor
  • CHECK for noise with the vehicle at constant speeds. CYCLE the compressor on and off and listen for a change in pitch. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to CLIMATE CONTROL article.
 
  • Powertrain mounts
  • Sputter type noise - noise worse when the vehicle is cold, lessens or disappears when the vehicle is at operating temperature
  • Damaged or worn exhaust system components
  • INSPECT the exhaust system for leaks or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM article.
  • Rattling noise - noise from the upper engine (valve train). Worse when the engine is cold
  • Low oil level
  • CHECK the oil level. FILL as necessary.
 
  • Thin or diluted oil
  • INSPECT the oil for contamination. If the oil is contaminated, CHECK for the source. REPAIR as necessary. CHANGE the oil and filter.
 
  • Low oil pressure
 
  • Worn rocker arms/fulcrums or followers
 
  • Worn valve guides
 
  • Excessive runout of valve seats on the valve face
  • Rattling noise - from the bottom of the vehicle
  • Loose muffler shields or catalytic converter shields
  • CHECK the exhaust system for loose exhaust shields. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM article.
  • Thumping noise - from the bottom of the vehicle, worse at acceleration
  • Exhaust pipe/muffler grounded to chassis
  • CHECK the exhaust system to chassis clearance. CHECK the exhaust system hangers for damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM article.
  • Whoosh - occurs during light vehicle acceleration. Heard inside the vehicle
  • Throttling late, creating turbulence transmitted through the plastic manifold
  • CHECK for leaks or a missing seal in the dash panel.
  • Engine vibration - increases intensity as the engine rpm is increased
  • Engine out-of-balance
  • CARRY OUT the Neutral Engine Run-Up (NERU) Test. ROTATE the torque converter, 120° for 3-bolt or 180° for 4-bolt. INSPECT the torque converter pilot outer diameter to crankshaft pilot inner diameter. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION - CD4E article.
  • Engine vibration - is felt with increases and decreases in engine rpm
  • Strain on the exhaust mounts
 
  • Damaged or worn powertrain/drivetrain mounts
 
  • Engine or transmission grounded to chassis
  • INSPECT the powertrain/drivetrain for correct clearances. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Engine vibration - vibration felt at all times
  • Excessive engine pulley runout
 
  • Damaged or worn accessory component
  • CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REPAIR or INSTALL a new component as necessary.
  • Accelerator pedal vibration - felt through the pedal as a buzz
  • Throttle cable loose or misrouted
  • Engine vibration - mostly at coast/neutral coast. Condition improves with vehicle acceleration
  • Combustion instability
  • Engine vibration or shudder - occurs with light to medium acceleration above 56 km/h (35 mph)
  • Worn or damaged spark plugs
  • INSPECT the spark plugs for cracks, high resistance or broken insulators. INSTALL a new spark plug(s) as necessary.
 
  • Plugged fuel injector
 
  • Damaged spark plug wire
  • INSPECT the spark plug wires for damage. INSTALL a new spark plug wire(s) as necessary.
 
  • Contaminated fuel
  • INSPECT the fuel for contamination. DRAIN the fuel system and refill.
 
  • Worn or damaged torque converter
Symptom Chart - Idle Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Idle air control (IAC) valve moan - occurs on throttle tip-out
  • IAC valve is contaminated with oil
  • Go to Component Tests.
  • Accessory drive belt chirp - occurs at idle or high idle, cold or hot. Most common occurrence is during humid weather
  • Accessory drive belt worn, or pulley is misaligned or loose
  • Accessory drive bearing hoot - occurs at idle or high idle in cold temperatures of approximately +4°C (+40°F) or colder at the first start of the day
  • Accessory drive idler or tensioner pulley bearing is experiencing stick/slip between ball bearings and the bearing race
  • Power steering moan - occurs at high idle and possibly at idle during the first cold start of the day in temperatures of approximately -18°C (0°F) or colder. Noise can even be a severe screech for less than one minute in very cold temperatures of approximately -29°C (-20°F) or colder
  • High fluid viscosity or plugged reservoir screen in the power steering reservoir starves pump causing cavitation
  • Generator whine - during high electrical loads at idle or high idle, a high pitch whine or moan is emitted from the generator
  • Generator electrical field noise
  • Using an EngineEAR, PROBE near the generator housing. LISTEN for changes in the noise level while changing the electrical loads (such as rear defrost, headlamps, etc.). CARRY OUT a generator load test. If the system passes the load test, the noise is from the generator bearings. INSTALL a new generator. REFER to GENERATOR AND REGULATOR article.
  • Drumming noise - occurs inside the vehicle during idle or high idle, hot or cold. Very low-frequency drumming is very rpm dependent
  • Exhaust system vibration excites the body resonances inducing interior noise
  • Engine vibration excites the body resonances inducing interior noise
  • Hissing noise - occurs during idle or high idle that is apparent with the hood open
  • Vacuum leak or idle air control (IAC) valve flow noise
  • Use the Ultrasonic Leak Detector/EngineEAR to locate the source. Scan the air intake system from the inlet to each cylinder intake port. DISCARD the leaking parts, and INSTALL a new component.
 
  • Idle air control (IAC) valve flow noise
  • Go to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Component Test.
 
  • Vehicles with a plastic intake manifold
  • Acceptable condition. Some plastic manifolds exhibit this noise, which is the effect of the plastic manifold.
  • Automatic transmission buzz or hiss
  • Incorrect driveline angles
 
  • Worn or damaged main control solenoids or valves
  • Manual transmission clutch release bearing whine. A change in noise pitch or loudness while applying the clutch pedal
  • Worn clutch release bearing
  • INSTALL a new clutch release bearing. REFER to CLUTCH article.
  • Heating, vacuum, and air conditioning (HVAC) system chirp - most audible inside the vehicle. Listen for a change in the noise pitch or loudness while changing the HVAC system blower speed
  • Damaged or worn HVAC blower bearing
  • Air conditioning (A/C) clutch ticking - occurs when the compressor clutch engages
  • Acceptable noise
  • Incorrect air gap
  • LISTEN to the clutch to determine if the noise occurs with clutch engagement. A small amount of noise is acceptable. If the noise is excessive, CHECK the A/C clutch air gap. INSPECT the A/C clutch for wear or damage. INSTALL a new clutch as necessary. REFER to CLIMATE CONTROL article.
  • Intermittent rattle or scraping/rubbing noise
  • Loose exhaust heat shield(s)
  • INSPECT the exhaust system for loose parts using a glove or clamps to verify the cause. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM article.
 
  • Wiring, hose or other part interfering with accessory drive, drive belt or pulley
  • INSPECT the accessory drive system closely. VERIFY there is adequate clearance to all rotating components. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Engine ticking or knocking noise - occurs during idle or high idle during the first cold start of the day
  • Piston noise or valve train noise (bled down lifter/lash adjuster)
  • A continuous, speed-dependent rattle from the engine - occurs during idle or high idle during the first cold start of the day and disappears as the engine warms up
  • Piston noise or valve train noise (bled down lifter/lash adjuster)
  • Idle vibration - a low-frequency vibration (5-20 Hz) or mild shake that is felt through the seat/floorpan
  • Cylinder misfire
 
  • Engine or torque converter out of balance
  • Idle vibration - a high-frequency vibration (20-80 Hz) or buzz that is felt through the steering wheel or seat
  • Exhaust system mounts bound up
  • VERIFY the concern occurs at the engine firing frequency. CHECK that the exhaust system vibrates at the same frequency as the engine. ADD 9-14 kg (20-30 lb.) to the tail pipe to test. CARRY OUT the Exhaust System Neutralizing  procedure.
 
  • Body mounts loose
  • INSPECT the body mounts. CARRY OUT a Neutral Engine Run-Up (NERU) Test. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Power steering lines grounded out
  • VERIFY that the power steering lines are not contacting the chassis or each other. REPAIR as necessary.
Symptom Chart - Squeak and Rattle

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Squeak - heard inside the vehicle when closing/opening the door
  • Insufficient lubrication on the door hinge or check strap
  • LUBRICATE the hinge or check strap
 
  • Internal door components are loose, rubbing or misaligned
  • CHECK the inside of the door. TIGHTEN or ALIGN components as necessary. USE the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit to isolate any rubbing components.
  • Squeak - heard inside the vehicle when closing/opening the window
  • Worn or damaged glass run/channel
  • Squeak - heard outside of vehicle when closing/opening the door
  • Exhaust shield rubbing against the chassis or exhaust pipe
  • CHECK the exhaust system. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM article.
  • Squeak - occurs with initial brake pedal application
  • Disc brake pads
  • Under certain conditions, asbestos-free pads can generate a squeak noise. This noise is normal and does not indicate a concern.
  • Squeak - a constant noise that occurs with brake pedal applications
  • Damaged or worn disc brake pads
  • INSPECT the pads for oil, grease or brake fluid contamination. CHECK for glazed linings. A brake disc with hard spots will also cause a squeak type noise. REPAIR or INSTALL new pads as necessary. REFER to FRONT DISC BRAKE article for the front brakes or REAR DISC BRAKE article for the rear brakes.
  • Squeak - noise occurs over bumps or when turning
  • Worn control arm bushings
  • INSPECT the control arm bushings. SPRAY with lubricant and CARRY OUT a bounce test to determine which bushing is causing the concern. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for front bushings or REAR SUSPENSION article for rear bushings.
 
  • Worn or damaged shock absorber/strut
  • INSPECT the shock absorber/strut for damage. CARRY OUT a bounce test to isolate the noise. INSTALL a new shock absorber/strut as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for the front shock absorber/strut or REAR SUSPENSION article for the rear shock absorber/strut.
  • Rattle - heard when closing/opening the door or window
  • Loose internal door mechanism, bracket or attachment
  • REPEAT the motion or CARRY OUT a tap test to duplicate the noise. INSPECT the door for loose components. TIGHTEN loose components or USE the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit to isolate any rattling components.
  • Squeak or rattle - heard inside the vehicle over rough roads/bumps
  • Misaligned glove compartment door/hinge
  • ALIGN the glove compartment door.
 
  • Instrument panel trim loose or misaligned
  • INSPECT the instrument panel trim for missing or loose clips or screws. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Loose interior component or trim
  • CARRY OUT a touch test. ELIMINATE the noise by pressing or pulling on interior trim and components. USE the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit to isolate any rattling/squeaking components.
  • Squeak or rattle - noise with a vibration concern
  • Damaged or worn sub-frame mounts
  • INSPECT the upper and lower absorbers for damage or wear. CHECK the sub-frame for damage. VERIFY the nuts and bolts are tightened to specifications. TIGHTEN as necessary. REFER to UNI-BODY, SUBFRAME AND MOUNTING SYSTEM article.
Symptom Chart - Steering Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Steering grunt or shudder - occurs when turning into or out of a turn at low speeds (temperature sensitive)
  • Steering gear or power steering hoses
  • Go to Steering Gear Grunt/Shudder Test.
  • Steering system clonk - hydraulic knocking sound
  • Air in the steering hydraulic system
  • Power steering pump moan - loud humming noise occurs when the steering wheel is rotated to the stop position. Produces a 120-600 Hz frequency that changes with rpm
  • Power steering hose grounded out to chassis
  • INSPECT the power steering hoses. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Aerated fluid
 
  • Steering gear isolators
  • INSPECT the isolators for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
 
  • Low fluid
  • CHECK the fluid level. REFILL as necessary.
 
  • Power steering pump brackets loose or misaligned
  • CHECK the bolts, brackets and bracket alignment. TIGHTEN the bolts to specification. REPAIR or INSTALL new brackets as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
  • Steering gear clunk - occurs only while cornering over a bump (can be temperature sensitive)
  • Steering gear
  • INSPECT the steering gear for loose mounting bolts. TIGHTEN as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
  • Feedback (rattle, chuckle, or knocking noise in the steering gear) - a condition where roughness is felt in the steering wheel when the vehicle is driven over rough surfaces
  • Column intermediate/flexible shaft joints damaged or worn
 
  • Loose, damaged or worn tie-rod ends
  • TIGHTEN the nuts to specification or INSTALL new tie-rod ends as necessary. REFER to STEERING LINKAGE article.
 
  • Steering gear insulators or mounting bolts loose or damaged
  • TIGHTEN the bolts or INSTALL new bolts as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
 
  • Steering column intermediate shaft bolts are loose
 
  • Steering column damaged or worn
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new steering column as necessary. REFER to STEERING COLUMN article.
 
  • Loose suspension bushings, bolts, or ball joints
  • INSPECT the suspension system. TIGHTEN or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for the front suspension or REAR SUSPENSION article for the rear suspension.
  • Feedback (nibble at the steering wheel) - a condition where slight rotational movement is felt in the steering wheel when the vehicle is driven over rough or grooved surfaces
  • Lateral runout in the tire or wheel
 
  • Yoke spring in the steering gear
  • CHECK TSBs for revised yoke spring for applicable vehicle.
  • Accessory drive belt squeal/chirp - when rotating the steering wheel from stop to stop
  • Loose or worn accessory drive belt
  • Power steering gear hiss
  • Steering column intermediate/flexible shaft-to-steering gear is binding or misaligned
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new steering column as necessary. REFER to STEERING COLUMN article.
 
  • Grounded or loose steering column boot at the dash panel
  • REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn steering gear input shaft and valve
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new steering gear as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
  • Steering column rattle
  • Loose bolts or attaching brackets
 
  • Loose, worn or insufficiently lubricated column bearings
  • LUBRICATE the steering column bearings or INSTALL new steering column as necessary. REFER to STEERING COLUMN article.
 
  • Steering shaft insulators damaged or worn
 
  • Intermediate/flexible shaft compressed or extended
  • INSPECT the rubber spider coupling for damage. INSTALL a new steering column. REFER to STEERING COLUMN article.
  • Steering column squeak or cracks
  • Insufficiently lubricated steering shaft bushings
  • LUBRICATE the steering shaft and shaft tube seals.
 
  • Loose or misaligned steering column shrouds
  • TIGHTEN or ALIGN the steering column shrouds.
 
  • Steering wheel rubbing against the steering column shrouds
  • REPOSITION the steering column shrouds.
 
  • Upper or lower bearing sleeve out of position
  • REPOSITION the bearing sleeves.
  • Power steering pump noisy
  • Incorrect assembly of components.
  • Imperfections on the outside diameter or end surface of the power steering pump rotor
  • Damaged or worn power steering pump rotor splines
  • A crack on the inner surface of the power steering pump cam
  • Interference between the power steering pump rotor and cam
  • Damaged or worn power steering pump rotor and pressure plates
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new power steering pump as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
  • Power steering pump swish noise
  • Power steering fluid flow into the bypass valve of the pump valve housing with the fluid temperature below 54°C (130°F)
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Power steering pump whine noise
  • Aerated fluid
 
  • Damaged power steering pump cam
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new power steering pump as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
 
  • Damaged valve cover O-ring seal
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new power steering pump as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
  • Power steering pump clicking (mechanical) noise
  • Power steering pump rotor slippers too long, excessive rotor slipper-to-slot clearance or damaged or worn rotor assembly
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new power steering pump as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
  • Power steering pump clatter noise
  • Damaged corners on the outside diameter of the power steering pump rotor or distorted rotor slipper ring
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new power steering pump as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING article.
Symptom Chart - Suspension Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Squeak or grunt - noise from the front suspension, occurs more in cold ambient temperatures. More noticeable over rough roads or when turning
  • Front stabilizer bar insulators
  • Under these conditions, the noise is acceptable. CHECK TSBs.
  • Clunk - noise from the front suspension, occurs in and out of turns
  • Loose front struts
  • INSPECT for loose nuts or bolts. TIGHTEN to specifications. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article.
  • Clunk - noise from the rear suspension, occurs when shifting from reverse to drive
  • Loose rear suspension components
  • INSPECT for loose or damaged rear suspension components. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to REAR SUSPENSION article.
  • Click or pop - noise from the front suspension. More noticeable over rough roads or over bumps
  • Worn or damaged ball joints
  • CARRY OUT a ball joint inspection. INSTALL new ball joints or control arms as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article.
  • Click or pop (front wheel drive [FWD] vehicles) - noise occurs when vehicle is turning
  • Worn or damaged ball joints
  • CARRY OUT a ball joint inspection. INSTALL new ball joints or control arms as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article.
  • Click or snap - occurs when accelerating around a corner
  • Damaged or worn outer constant velocity (CV) joint
  • INSPECT the outer CV joint and boot. REPAIR or INSTALL a new CV joint as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS article.
  • Front suspension noise - a squeak, creak, or rattle noise. Occurs mostly over bumps or rough roads
  • Steering components
  • Loose or bent front struts or shock absorbers
  • Damaged spring or spring mounts
  • Damaged or worn control/radius arm bushings
  • Worn or damaged stabilizer bar bushings or links
  • Rear suspension noise - a squeak, creak, or rattle noise. Occurs mostly over bumps or rough roads
  • Loose or bent rear shock absorbers
  • Damaged spring or spring mounts
  • Damaged or worn control arm bushings
  • Shudder - occurs during acceleration from a slow speed or stop
  • Rear drive axle assembly mispositioned
  • CHECK the axle mounts and the rear suspension for damage or wear. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Incorrect or high constant velocity (CV) joint operating angle
  • REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn front suspension components
  • CHECK for a loose stabilizer bar, damaged or loose strut/strut bushings or loose or worn ball joints. INSPECT the steering linkage for wear or damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article.
  • Shimmy - most noticeable on coast/deceleration. Also hard steering condition
  • Excessive positive caster
Symptom Chart - Tire Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Tire noise - hum/moan at constant speeds
  • Abnormal wear patterns
  • SPIN the tire and CHECK for tire wear. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. INSPECT for damaged/worn suspension components. CARRY OUT wheel alignment. REFER to SUSPENSION SYSTEM - GENERAL INFORMATION article.
  • Tire noise - noise tone lowers as the vehicle speed is lowered
  • Out-of-balance tire
  • BALANCE the tire and road test. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
  • Tire noise - ticking noise, changes with speed
  • Nail puncture or a stone in the tire tread
  • Wheel and tire - vibration and noise concern is directly related to vehicle speed and is not affected by acceleration, coasting or decelerating
  • Damaged or worn tire
  • Tire wobble or shudder - occurs at lower speeds
  • Damaged wheel bearings
  • SPIN the tire and CHECK for abnormal wheel bearing play or roughness. ADJUST or INSTALL new wheel bearings as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for the front bearings or REAR SUSPENSION article for the rear bearings.
 
  • Damaged wheel
  • INSPECT the wheel for damage. INSTALL a new wheel as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Damaged or worn suspension components
  • INSPECT the suspension components for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION article for the front suspension or REAR SUSPENSION article for the rear suspension.
 
  • Loose wheel nuts
  • CHECK the wheel nuts. TIGHTEN to specification. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Damaged or uneven tire wear
  • SPIN the tire and CHECK for abnormal tire wear or damage. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
  • Tire shimmy or shake - occurs at lower speeds
  • Wheel/tire out of balance
  • BALANCE the wheel/tire assembly. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Uneven tire wear
  • CHECK for abnormal tire wear. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Excessive radial runout of the wheel or tire
  • CARRY OUT a radial runout test of the wheel and tire. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Worn or damaged wheel studs or elongated stud holes
  • INSPECT the wheel studs and wheels. INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to WHEELS AND TIRES article.
 
  • Excessive lateral runout of the wheel or tire
  • CARRY OUT a lateral runout test of the wheel and tire. CHECK the wheel, tire and hub. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
 
  • Foreign material between the brake disc and hub or in the brake disc fins.
  • CLEAN the mounting surfaces of the brake disc and hub. CHECK the brake disc fins for material.
  • High speed shake or shimmy
  • Excessive wheel hub runout
  • Damaged or worn tires
  • Damaged or worn wheel bearings
  • Worn or damaged suspension or steering linkage components
  • Brake disc or drum imbalance
Symptom Chart - Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Clutch rattling noise - occurs with the clutch engaged, noise changes/disappears with the clutch pedal applied
  • Flywheel bolts, clutch housing bolts or clutch pressure plate bolts loose
  • TIGHTEN the bolts to specifications. CHECK the bolts for damage. REFER to CLUTCH article.
  • Clutch squeaking noise - occurs with clutch pedal applied/released
  • Worn clutch pedal shaft or bushings
  • INSPECT the clutch pedal for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to CLUTCH CONTROLS article.
  • Clutch whirring/rattle noise - occurs when the clutch pedal is applied
  • Worn, damaged or misaligned clutch release bearing/slave cylinder
  • INSTALL a new clutch release bearing/slave cylinder. REFER to CLUTCH CONTROLS article.
  • Clutch grating/grinding noise - occurs when the clutch pedal is applied
  • Clutch pressure plate fingers bent or worn
  • INSPECT the clutch pressure plate release fingers. INSTALL a new pressure plate as necessary. REFER to CLUTCH article.
 
  • Contact surface of the clutch release bearing/slave cylinder worn or damaged
  • INSTALL a new clutch release bearing/slave cylinder. REFER to CLUTCH CONTROLS article.
  • Clutch chatter - a small amount of noise when the clutch pedal is released at initial take-off
  • Clutch engagement
  • Acceptable operating condition.
  • Clutch chatter/grabs - in some cases a shudder is felt. Occurs with the clutch pedal applied/released
  • Damaged or worn powertrain/driveline mounts
  • INSPECT the powertrain/drivetrain mounts. REFER to ENGINE - 2.3L article for the 2.3L engine. INSTALL new mounts as necessary.
 
  • Binding or dragging plunger of the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder
  • CHECK the master and slave cylinder operation. INSPECT the components for damage or wear. INSTALL a new master or slave cylinder as necessary. REFER to CLUTCH CONTROLS article.
 
  • Grease or oil on the clutch disc facing
  • CHECK the input shaft seal and rear main oil seal. REPAIR as necessary. INSTALL a new clutch disc. REFER to CLUTCH article.
 
  • Clutch disc surface glazed or damaged
  • INSPECT the clutch disc surface for a glazed, hardened or damaged condition. CARRY OUT a disc check. INSTALL a new clutch disc as necessary. REFER to CLUTCH article.
 
  • Damaged or worn clutch pressure plate
  • INSPECT the clutch pressure plate for wear or damage. INSTALL a new clutch pressure plate as necessary. REFER to CLUTCH article.
 
  • Flywheel surface damaged or glazed
  • INSPECT the flywheel for damage or wear. CARRY OUT a flywheel runout check. INSTALL a new flywheel as necessary. REFER to ENGINE - 2.3L article for the 2.3L engine.
  • Clutch chatter noise - noise when the clutch pedal is released at initial take-off. Clutch is hard to engage and disengage
  • Clutch pressure plate worn, damaged or not correctly aligned
  • INSPECT the clutch pressure plate release fingers for uneven wear or burnt clutch components. INSTALL a new pressure plate as necessary. REFER to CLUTCH article.
  • Clutch vibration
  • Loose flywheel bolts
  • Damaged or loose clutch pressure plate
  • Excessive flywheel runout
  • Transmission rattling/clattering noise - noise at idle or on light acceleration from a stop. Gear selection is difficult
  • Gearshift lever joint worn or damaged
 
  • Gearshift lever loose
 
  • Gearshift linkage rods worn or damaged
  • Transmission rattling/clattering noise - occurs in neutral or in gear, at idle
  • Incorrect fluid level or fluid quality
  • VERIFY that the transmission is filled to the correct level and with the specified fluid.
  • Transmission rattling/clattering noise - noise at idle in neutral
  • Worn or rough reverse idler gear
 
  • Rough running engine, cylinder misfire
 
  • Excessive backlash in gears
 
  • Worn countershaft gears
  • Transmission whine - a mild whine at extreme speeds or high rpm
  • Rotating gears/geartrain
  • Acceptable noise.
  • Transmission whine - a high pitched whine, also described as a squeal
  • Transmission gears are worn (high mileage vehicle)
  • Result of normal gear wear. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Mismatched gear sets
  • INSPECT the gear sets for an uneven wear pattern on the face of the gear teeth. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to MANUAL TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION article.
 
  • Damaged or worn transmission bearing(s)
  • Transmission growling/humming - noise occurs in the forward gears. The noise is more prominent when the gear is loaded. The problem gear can be located as the noise occurs in a specific gear position
  • Gear is cracked, chipped or rough
  • Transmission hissing - noise in neutral or in forward gears. As bearings wear or break up, the noise changes to a thumping noise
  • Damaged or worn bearings
  • Transmission knocking/thudding - noise at low speeds in forward gears
  • Bearings with damaged balls or rollers or with pitted and spalled races
  • Transmission rumble/growl - noise at higher speeds in forward gears, more pronounced in a coast/deceleration condition
  • Incorrect driveline angle
 
  • Driveshaft out of balance or damaged
  • CHECK the driveshaft for damage, missing balance weights or undercoating. Using the vibration analyzer (VA), CHECK the driveshaft balance. CARRY OUT a driveline vibration test. For additional information, REFER to DRIVESHAFT article. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Transmission rumble/growl - noise at all speeds in forward gears, more pronounced in a heavy acceleration condition
  • Damaged or worn transmission bearing or gears (high mileage vehicles)
  • Transfer case whine - noise at all ranges
  • Incorrect fluid level or fluid quality
 
  • Worn oil pump
 
  • Under-inflated or oversized tires
  • CONFIRM that the tires and wheels are correct for the vehicle. CHECK that the tire inflation pressures are correct.
  • Transfer case growl/rumble - noise at all ranges
  • Damaged or worn bearings or gears
  • Transfer case scraping/grating - noise at all ranges
  • Excessively stretched drive chain hitting the case
  • Transfer case howl/hum - noise at all ranges or high range only
  • Worn or damaged sun (input) gear, clutch pack (intermediate) gear or output shaft gear
  • Transfer case howl/hum - noise at low range only
  • Worn or damaged intermediate gear and sliding gears (clutch pack)
  • Transfer case vibration - vibration felt with vehicle in 4WD
  • Transfer case mounting
  • Driveshaft out of balance
  • Excessive pinion flange runout
Symptom Chart - Automatic Transmission Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Rattle - occurs at idle or at light acceleration from a stop
  • Damaged engine or transmission mounts
 
  • A loose front exhaust pipe heat shield
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new heat shield as necessary.
 
  • Loose inspection plate or dust cover plate
 
  • Loose flexplate-to-converter nuts
  • Whine - pitch increases with vehicle speed. Starts in first and second gear, decreases or goes away at higher gears
  • Damaged or worn low one-way clutch
  • Damaged or worn intermediate one-way clutch
  • Friction elements
  • Damaged or worn planetary or sun gear
  • Whine - the pitch changes with engine speed
  • A worn or damaged accessory drive component
  • CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
 
  • Incorrect fluid level
 
  • Partially blocked filter
 
  • Worn or damaged torque converter
 
  • Worn or damaged front pump
  • Whine - pitch changes with vehicle speed
  • Speedometer cable or gears
  • REPAIR or INSTALL new cables or gears as necessary.
  • Whine/moan type noise - pitch increases or changes with vehicle speed
  • Damaged engine or transmission mount
 
  • U-joints or constant velocity (CV) worn or damaged
  • INSPECT the U-joints or CV joints for wear or damage. INSTALL new U-joints or a driveshaft as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Damaged or worn differential ring and pinion
 
  • Planetary gears nicked or chipped
  • Whistle - noise is high pitched, constant. Changes in pitch with throttle position
  • Hydraulic pressure in the main control
 
  • Incorrect band/clutch apply pressure
 
  • Worn or damaged torque converter
  • Clunk - occurs when shifting from park to a drive or reverse position
  • Damaged powertrain mounts
  • INSPECT the powertrain mounts for damage. INSTALL new mounts as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn pinion bearings
 
  • Worn driveshaft constant velocity (CV) joint
  • INSPECT the CV joint. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Worn friction elements or excessive clutch pack end plate play
  • INSPECT the transmission for wear. CHECK that all end play and clearances are within specification. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION - CD4E article.
  • Bump - occurs when shifting from park to a drive or reverse position. Similar to clunk but with no sound
  • Initial gear engagement
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Buzz or hiss
  • Incorrect driveline angles
  • CHECK for correct driveline angles. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to Driveline Angles.
 
  • Worn or damaged main control solenoids or valves
  • Vibration - a high frequency (20-80 Hz) vibration that is felt through the seat or gear shifter. Changes with engine speed
  • Transmission cooler lines grounded out
  • CHECK the transmission cooler lines. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Flexplate-to-torque converter nuts loose
 
  • Fluid filler tube grounded out
  • CHECK the fluid filler tube. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Shift cable incorrectly routed, grounded out or loose
  • Shutter or chatter - occurs with light to medium acceleration from low speeds or a stop
  • Electrical inputs/outputs
  • Vehicle wiring harness
  • Incorrect inputs/outputs from the powertrain control module (PCM), digital transmission range (TR) sensor, brake pedal position (BPP) sensor, throttle position (TP) sensor, transmission speed sensor (TSS), output speed shaft (OSS) sensor or the torque converter clutch (TCC).
  • CARRY OUT a Torque Converter Clutch Operation Test. RUN the on-board diagnostics or self-test. REFER to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION - CD4E article. CLEAR the DTCs, road test and rerun the on-board diagnostics or self-test.
Symptom Chart - Electronically Controlled Continuously Variable Transmission (eCVT) Noise/Vibration

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Rattle-occurs at idle or at light acceleration from a stop
  • Damaged engine or electronically controlled electronically controlled continuously variable transmission (eCVT) mounts
 
  • A loose front exhaust pipe heat shield
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new heat shield as necessary.
 
  • Loose inspection plate or dust cover plate
 
  • Loose flexplate-to-converter nuts
  • Whine-pitch increases with vehicle speed. Starts in first and second gear, decreases or goes away at higher gears
  • Damaged or worn low one-way clutch
  • Damaged or worn intermediate one-way clutch
  • Friction elements
  • Damaged or worn planetary or sun gear
  • Whine-the pitch changes with engine speed
  • A worn or damaged accessory drive component
  • CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
 
  • Incorrect fluid level
 
  • Partially blocked filter
 
  • Worn or damaged front pump
  • Whine-pitch changes with vehicle speed
  • Speedometer cable or gears
  • REPAIR or INSTALL new cables or gears as necessary.
  • Whine/moan type noise-pitch increases or changes with vehicle speed
  • Damaged engine or electronically controlled eCVT mount
 
  • U-joints worn or damaged
  • INSPECT the U-joints or CV joints for wear or damage. INSTALL new U-joints or CV joints as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Damaged or worn differential ring and pinion
 
  • Planetary gears nicked or chipped
  • Whistle-noise is high pitched, constant. Changes in pitch with the throttle position
  • Hydraulic pressure in the main control
 
  • Incorrect band/clutch apply pressure
  • Clunk-occurs when shifting from park to a drive or reverse position
  • Damaged powertrain mounts
  • INSPECT the powertrain mounts for damage. INSTALL new mounts as necessary.
 
  • Damaged or worn pinion bearings
 
  • Worn driveshaft constant velocity (CV) joint
  • INSPECT the CV joint. INSTALL a new driveshaft as necessary. REFER to DRIVESHAFT article.
 
  • Worn friction elements or excessive clutch pack end plate play
  • Bump-occurs when shifting from park to a drive or reverse position. Similar to Clunk but with no sound
  • Initial gear engagement
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Buzz or hiss
  • Incorrect driveline angles
  • Vibration-a high frequency (20-80 Hz) that is felt through the seat or gear shifter. Changes with engine speed
  • Electronically controlled continuously variable transmission (eCVT) cooler lines grounded out
  • CHECK the eCVT cooler lines. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Fluid filler tube grounded out
  • CHECK the fluid filler tube. REPAIR as necessary.
 
  • Shift cable incorrectly routed, grounded out or loose