General Repair Information
Carefulness, cleanliness and the correct tools are required for transmission repairs to be successful. The usual basic safety precautions also, naturally apply when carrying out vehicle repairs.
Some general repair information that applies to several procedures throughout this manual is summarized here. They apply to this repair information.
Special Tools and Equipment
- For a complete list of special tools used in the Repair Information refer to Workshop Equipment and Special Tools.
Transmission
- Allocate bolts and other components according to transmission code .
- Always clean the connection locations and the area around them before loosening.
- When replacing or repairing a manual transmission, check the fluid level and fill if necessary. Refer to TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL, CHECKING .
- Use the transmission code to determine capacities and specifications. Refer to CAPACITIES .
Sealant
- Thoroughly clean the housing joint surfaces before applying the sealing compound.
- Apply the Sealant AMV 188 001 02 evenly and not too thick.
- Do not allow any Sealing Compound to get into the ventilation holes.
O-rings, shaft seals, seals
- O-rings, shaft seals and seals must be replaced.
- After removing gaskets and seals, always inspect the contact surfaces at housing or shaft for burrs resulting from removal, or for other signs of damage.
- Thoroughly clean housing joint surfaces before assembling.
- Before installing the shaft seal lightly oil the outer circumference and fill the space between the sealing lips -arrow- halfway with Grease G 052 128 A1.
- The open side on the shaft seals faces the fluid to be sealed off.
- Press in new shaft seal, so that the sealing lip does not run on the same point as the sealing lip of the old shaft seal (use insertion depth tolerances).
- Lightly lubricate O-rings before installing to prevent them from being crushed when inserting.
- After replacing the seals and the sealing rings, check the transmission fluid level and fill if necessary. Refer to TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL, CHECKING .
Fasteners
- Do not overstretch the circlips.
- Always replace damaged or stretched circlips.
- Installed position for some of the circlips: the circlip is >>narrower at the top<<. This makes it easier for the pliers to grab the circlip when removing and installing it.
- The circlips must fit completely inside the groove.
- Replace the adapter sleeves. Installed position: the slit -A- should align with the line of force -arrow-.
Bolts and nuts
- Loosen the bolts and nuts opposite the tightening sequence.
- Nuts and bolts which secure covers and housings should be loosened and tightened diagonally and in steps if no tightening sequence is specified.
- Parts which are particularly sensitive to distortion must be kept straight when removing and installing; loosen or tighten diagonally in stages.
- The tightening specifications stated apply to non-oiled nuts and bolts.
- Always replace self-locking nuts and bolts.
- Use a wire brush to clean the threads of bolts that were screwed in with locking compound. Install the bolts with Locking Fluid AMV 185 101 A1.
- Clean the threaded holes for the self-locking bolts or for the bolts coated with locking fluid. Otherwise there is a risk that the bolts will shear the next time they are removed.
Adjusting Shims
- Measure the adjusting shims at several locations with a micrometer. Tolerance variations make it possible to find the exact shim thickness required.
- Check for burrs and damage.
- Only install perfect shims that have never been damaged.
Bearings
- Set needle bearings, ball sleeves and roller sleeves with the inscribed side (greater thickness) facing toward drift.
- Insert all the bearings in transmission with gear oil.
- Heat the tapered roller bearing inner races to approximately 100 °C with the Inductive Heater VAS6414 before installing. Press on to the stop when installing, so there is no axial clearance.
- Warm inner race for needle and roller bearings to 130 °C max.
- Do not interchange outer and inner bearing races with those from other bearing of the same size. The bearings are paired.
- Replace all the tapered roller bearings that are on the same shaft. Use tapered roller bearings from the same manufacturer.
Gears, synchronizer hubs, selector gear inner races
- To install, warm the inner race for gear wheels to approximately 100 °C with Inductive Heater VAS6414.
- Heat the gears and synchronizer hubs to approximately 100 °C with the Inductive Heater VAS6414 before installing. Press on as far as the stop when installing so there is no axial play.
- Pay attention to the installed location.
Selector Gears
- After assembly, check selector gears of 1st through 6th gear for axial play of 0.15 to 0.50 mm and ease of movement.
Input Shaft
- If the surface of the input shaft is visibly damaged near the needle bearing in the dual mass flywheel -arrow-, then replace both the input shaft and the needle bearing.
- Replace the drive shaft. Refer to TRANSMISSION, DISASSEMBLING AND ASSEMBLING .
- Replace the needle bearing inside the dual mass flywheel. Refer to DUAL MASS FLYWHEEL NEEDLE BEARING OR BALL BEARING, REPLACING .
- Check the input shaft near the bearing in the drive plate -arrow- for wear grooves and replace the needle bearing in the drive plate if necessary. Refer to NEEDLE BEARING IN DRIVE PLATE, REPLACING for 2.0L, engine codes CAED, CAEB, CPMB, CPMA, NEEDLE BEARING IN DRIVE PLATE, REPLACING for 3.0L, engine codes CCBA, CGXC, CTUB, or NEEDLE BEARING IN DRIVE PLATE, REPLACING for 3.2L, engine code CALA .
Synchronizer Rings
- Do not interchange them. When reusing synchronizer rings, always install to the same gear wheel.
- Check for wear and replace if necessary.
- Install coated with transmission fluid.
Check the synchronizer rings coated with molybdenum grease -I- and the synchronizer rings coated with carbon -II-.
- Clean the synchronizer ring. There must not be any oil on the friction surface.
I - Synchronizer rings coated with molybdenum grease
- The friction surface of a intact molybdenum coated synchronizer ring looks graphite gray and slightly porous.
- Replace the synchronizer ring if the friction surface has shiny spots -A- or if the brass color base starts to show through.
II - Synchronizer rings coated with carbon
- Check the synchronizer rings coated with carbon friction surfaces -B- for damage (flat areas, disintegrating areas or carbon layer). Replace if necessary.
Synchronizer rings for 1st and 2nd gears:
- Check coated friction surfaces -arrows 2- from intermediate ring -B- for damage (flat areas, disintegrating areas or carbon layer).
- Check the inner friction surface -arrow 1- of the synchronizer ring -A- and the outer friction surface -arrow 4- of the inner race -C- for >>grooves<< and >>scoring<<.
- On inner races -C- with coated friction surfaces -Arrow 3-, check coating for damage (disintegrating carbon layer).
Damage on the selector gears and locking collars
- Damage to the synchronizer ring or gear wheel:
A - Worn clutch spline camber on the synchronizer ring or gear wheel
- Compare: synchronizer ring or gear wheel not damaged:
B - Undamaged clutch spline camber on the synchronizer ring or gear wheel
- Illustration of damage on the locking collar:
C - Worn longitudinal inner spline camber and the locking collar
- Comparison: locking collar not damaged:
D - Undamaged longitudinal inner spline camber and the locking collar
- Synchronizer rings coated with carbon must be replaced together with the locking collar. The gear wheels must be replaced as well depending on the amount of wear.
Clutch mechanism, Clutch
- To reduce odor caused by a burnt clutch, thoroughly clean the transmission housing around the clutch as well as the engine on the transmission side.
- Only use compressed air to clean the clutch module.
>>Clicking<< in dual mass flywheel with centrifugal pendulum absorber; "LuK Manufacturer"
- Depending on the version, the clutch module -A- is installed with or without a centrifugal pendulum absorber.
- A >>clicking<< is heard when turning the clutch module with the centrifugal pendulum absorber by hand approximately every 90°.
- This noise comes from a centrifugal pendulum absorber in the dual mass flywheel and is not a fault.