Replacing the front sub-frame: Installation: Finishing
Install
- the right-hand engine mounting. Use new screws. Tighten to 35 Nm . Angle-tighten 90° .
- the front engine pad. Tighten to 50 Nm .
- lower torque rod. Tighten the screw and nut. Tighten to 35 Nm
. Angle-tighten 90°
.
The lower torque rod must be tightened last to avoid tension being introduced.
Tighten the front nuts. Tighten to 65 Nm . Angle-tighten 90° . Use bevel protractor 9512050 .
NOTE:
Use new screws and nuts.
- the fender liner and the splash guard with both the plastic nuts.
- the four nuts and screws holding the steering gear. Use new nuts and new screws. Tighten to 50 Nm
.
Clip the cable in position.
The nut (A), holding the lower half of the collision protection. (Applies only to right-hand drive cars). Tighten to 50 Nm .
- the wiring for the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) in its mounting. (Does not apply to diesels).
- the mounting for the exhaust pipe on the bracket. Tighten to 10 Nm
- the brake pipe on the exhaust pipe bracket
- the exhaust pipe bracket. Tighten the bracket screws. Tighten to 25 Nm .
- EVAP canister hose. Press the joint together. (Does not apply to Diesel).
- the oil pipe to the steering gear
- the hose for the EVAP canister (Does not apply to diesel)
- any fuel line for engine block heater
- the engine block heater (if applicable) on the left front mounting for the sub-frame.
- new nuts on the ball joints. Tighten to 80 Nm . Counterhold with a Torx wrench so that the ball joint boot is not damaged.
- the anti-roll bar links. Use new nuts. Tighten to 50 Nm . Counterhold with a Torx wrench so that the boot is not damaged.
- the cable duct screw.
- the air duct cover.
Install:
- the splash guard under the engine. Tighten to 20 Nm
- Lower the car.
- Install the wheels. See Installing wheels
- Remove the lifting tools for the engine
- Install the engine cover (Applies only to diesel engines).