Removal & Installation: Installation
- Master cylinder must be filled with fluid and bled before bleeding complete system. Entire master cylinder bleeding job can be done on the car, but preferred method is to bleed the master cylinder on the bench with bleeding tubes. If master cylinder has a bleed screw, the bench bleeding should still be done, and when master cylinder is installed on car the bleed screw should be used as a final check to free any trapped air.
- Place master cylinder level in vise, attach bleeding tubes to cylinder and fill reservoirs with fluid so that ends of tubes are covered. See illustration. Tubes attached to disc brake outlets must have a residual pressure valve on the end of the tube to prevent fluid from siphoning.
- Stroke piston in bore with a wooden stick or dowel until bubbles no longer appear at ends of tubes. Remove tubes and plug the master cylinder disc brake outlets to keep fluid from draining.
- Install master cylinder on car, reversing removal procedure. Bleed master cylinder bleed screw first, if used, and then bleed remainder of system. See "Hydraulic Brake Bleeding" in this section.
- Check master cylinder compensating ports by pumping brake pedal several times, ending with pedal held down. Remove master cylinder cover and slowly release pedal. Fluid should squirt up in each reservoir from the compensating ports.
- If a squirt of fluid is not seen in each reservoir, push rod may be too long or the port may be plugged. If port is open, adjust manual brake push rod at clevis, under dash. On power brakes, see Push Rod Adjustment under POWER BRAKE UNITS, in this Section.
- Pushrod should have a slight amount of play when in relaxed position, so that both master cylinder pistons will return to their stops when brakes are off.CAUTION: Do not use wire to check compensating ports. Wire may make a burr on port or damage cup.