Without A/C

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2013 Honda Fit, 2012 Honda Fit, 2011 Honda Fit, 2010 Honda Fit, and 2009 Honda Fit. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

Check the No. 30 (30 A) fuse and No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Are the fuses OK?

YES - Reinstall the fuse, then go to step 2.

NO - Replace the fuse(s) and recheck. If the fuse(s) blow again, repair the short to ground the No. 30 (30 A) fuse, and the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse circuit.
Remove the radiator fan relay (see POWER RELAY TEST ), and test the radiator fan relay (see POWER RELAY TEST ).
Is the relay OK?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Replace the radiator fan relay and recheck.
Measure the voltage between the radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground.

Fig 1: Measuring Voltage Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket Terminal No. 2 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 4.

NO - Repair an open in the wire between under-dash fuse/relay box connector B (36P) terminal No. 1 and radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 2.
Disconnect the radiator fan motor 2P connector.
Check for continuity between the radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and the radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.
Is there continuity?

YES - Go to step 6.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and the radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 2.

Fig 2: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket & Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Check for continuity between the radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.

Fig 3: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Motor 2P Connector Terminal No. 1 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Is there continuity?

YES - Go to step 7.

NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan motor 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for a poor ground at G301 (see CONNECTOR TO FUSE/RELAY BOX INDEX ).
Test the fan motor (see FAN MOTOR TEST ).
Is the fan motor OK?

YES - Go to step 8.

NO - Replace the fan motor. See FAN, FAN MOTOR, AND SHROUD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
Measure the voltage between the radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 4 and body ground.

Fig 4: Measuring Voltage Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket Terminal No. 4 & Body Ground
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Repair an open in the wire between under-dash fuse/relay box connector B (36P) terminal No. 12 and radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 4.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ).
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ).
Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (49P).
Check for continuity between the radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and ECM/PCM connector terminal A6.

Fig 5: Checking Continuity Between Radiator Fan Relay 4P Socket & ECM/PCM Connector
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

Is there continuity?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software (see ELD REPLACEMENT ), or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM (see SUBSTITUTING THE ECM/PCM ), then recheck. If the symptom goes away with a known good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM (see ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT ).

NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and ECM/PCM connector terminal A6.