LEMON Manuals: Even more car manuals for everyone
Home >> Mitsubishi >> 2014 >> Lancer ES Sportback >> Repair and Diagnosis >> External Pages >> Different car >> Section 100 (MITSUBISHI Multi-Communication System (MMCS) - With Diagnostics) >> Symptom Procedures >> Inspection Procedure 2: No sound is heard. < Vehicles with audio amplifier > >> Diagnosis

Inspection Procedure 2: No sound is heard. < Vehicles with audio amplifier >: Diagnosis

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

Required Special Tools: 

  1. STEP 1. Checking with audio speaker test 

    Perform the audio speaker test, and check which speaker, tweeter or subwoofer does not output the sound. Refer to ON-VEHICLE SERVICE .

    Q: Is the check result normal? 

    • YES:  The trouble can be an intermittent malfunction (Refer to HOW TO COPE WITH INTERMITTENT MALFUNCTION ).
    • NO (No speaker, tweeter and subwoofer sound.)  : Go to Step 2.
    • NO (No sound is heard from one of the speaker, tweeter and subwoofer.)  : Go to  Step 5.
  2. STEP 2. Check the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer. 
    1. Remove the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer.
    2. Check that the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer outputs the noise when the voltage of 5 V is applied to the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer connector terminal.

    Q: Do the speaker output the noise? 

    • YES:  Go to Step 3.
    • NO:  Replace the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer.
      Fig 1: Checking Speaker Or Tweeter
      G09667228Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.
  3. STEP 3. Check the wiring harness between the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer connector terminal and the audio amplifier connector terminal. 
    • Check of short circuit in DFR+, DFR- line between front door speaker (RH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Front door speaker (RH) >
    • Check of short circuit in DFL+, DFL- line between front door speaker (LH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Front door speaker (LH) >
    • Check of short circuit in TFR+, TFR- line between tweeter (RH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Tweeter (RH) >
    • Check of short circuit in TFL+, TFL- line between tweeter (LH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Tweeter (LH) >
    • Check of short circuit in RR+, RR- line between rear door speaker (RH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Rear door speaker (RH) >
    • Check of short circuit in RL+, RL- line between rear door speaker (LH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Rear door speaker (LH) >
    • Check of short circuit in RW+, RW1+, RW-, RW1-line between subwoofer connector and audio amplifier connector. < subwoofer >

    Q: Is the check result normal? 

    • YES:  Go to Step 4.
    • NO:  Repair the connector(s) or wiring harness.
  4. STEP 4. Check of short circuit in FL+, FL-, FR+, FR-, RR+, RR- line between audio amplifier connector and multivision display connector 

    Q: Is the check result normal? 

    • YES:  Go to  Step 8.
    • NO:  Repair the connector(s) or wiring harness.
  5. STEP 5. Check the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer. 

    Follow the speaker test to check which speaker, tweeter or subwoofer does not sound.

    1. Remove the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer.
    2. Check that the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer outputs the noise when the voltage of 5 V is applied to the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer connector terminal.

    Q: Do the speaker output the noise? 

    • YES:  Go to Step 6.
    • NO:  Replace the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer.
      Fig 2: Checking Speaker Or Tweeter
      G09667229Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA.
  6. STEP 6. Check the wiring harness between the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer connector terminal and the audio amplifier connector terminal. 

    Follow the speaker test to check which speaker, tweeter or subwoofer circuit is defective.

    • Check of open circuit in DFR+, DFR- line between front door speaker (RH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Front door speaker (RH) >
    • Check of open circuit in DFL+, DFL- line between front door speaker (LH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Front door speaker (LH) >
    • Check of open circuit in TFR+, TFR- line between tweeter (RH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Tweeter (RH) >
    • Check of open circuit in TFL+, TFL- line between tweeter (LH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Tweeter (LH) >
    • Check of open circuit in RR+, RR- line between rear door speaker (RH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Rear door speaker (RH) >
    • Check of open circuit in RL+, RL- line between rear door speaker (LH) connector and audio amplifier connector. < Rear door speaker (LH) >
    • Check of open circuit in RW+, RW1+, RW-, RW1-line between subwoofer connector and audio amplifier connector. < subwoofr >

    Q: Is the check result normal? 

    • YES:  Go to Step 7.
    • NO:  Repair the connector(s) or wiring harness.
  7. STEP 7. Check of open circuit in FL+, FL-, FR+, FR-, RR+, RR- line between audio amplifier connector and multivision display connector 

    Q: Is the check result normal? 

    • YES:  Go to Step 8.
    • NO:  Repair the connector(s) or wiring harness.
  8. STEP 8. Retest the system 

    Check if the sound is output from all the speaker, tweeter or subwoofer.

    Q: Is the check result normal? 

scientia non olet · About LEMON Manuals