Cylinder Head - LH: Installation

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2013 Ford Explorer. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

NOTE: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.

NOTE: If the cylinder head is replaced, a new secondary timing chain tensioner will need to be installed.

NOTE: The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions. Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Install a new gasket, the LH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in illustration below in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 45 degrees.
Install the M6 bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions.

NOTE: Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Install the valve tappets.
Install the LH upper primary timing chain guide and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.

Using new intake manifold and thermostat housing gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the 2 thermostat housing-to-lower intake manifold bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
If equipped, install the block heater wiring harness onto the engine.
- Stage 1: Tighten the cylinder block drain plug to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) plus an additional 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten the block heater to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
- Tighten to 16 Nm (142 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
Install 6 new LH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and 3 new lower LH catalytic converter manifold-to-cylinder head nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration:
- Stage 1: Tighten the 3 lower LH catalytic converter manifold-to-cylinder head nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Install the 3 new upper LH catalytic converter manifold-to-cylinder head nuts and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Install the LH exhaust heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
NOTE: Apply anti-seize to the threads of the HO2S prior to installing.

Install the LH HO2S .
- Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Connect the EOP switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
Install the generator stud, generator and the nut and bolt.
- Tighten the stud to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
- Tighten the nut and bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Connect the generator B+ cable and install the nut.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).
Position back the generator B+ cable cover and connect the generator electrical connector.
Install the A/C compressor the nut and the 2 stud bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Connect the 2 A/C compressor electrical connectors.
- Attach the A/C wiring harness retainer.
Install the wiring harness retainer to the rear of the LH cylinder head.
NOTE: Lubricate the CMP sensor O-ring seal with clean engine oil before installing the CMP sensor.

Install the 2 CMP sensors and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Connect the 2 LH CMP sensor electrical connectors.
If equipped, connect the block heater electrical connector.
- Install the block heater wiring harness to the engine.
If equipped, install the block heater heat shield.
Install the LH camshafts. Refer to CAMSHAFT .