Disassembly And Assembly: Engine: Assembly

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2013 Ford Explorer. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

NOTE: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, may cause engine failure.

NOTE: The engine is equipped with a cast aluminum (early build) or stamped steel (late build) crankshaft rear seal retainer plate. If the engine is equipped with a stamped steel plate, the seal and plate must be removed as an assembly and discarded.

NOTE: Assembly of the engine requires various inspections/measurements of the engine components (engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and piston rings). These inspections/measurements will aid in determining if the engine components will require replacement. REFER to the appropriate service information.

NOTE: The Wheel Hub Bearing Cup Installer is used to install the VCT solenoid seals.

Using a hexagonal screwdriver, install the 6 piston oil cool valves.
- Tighten to 4 Nm (35 lb-in).
NOTE: This procedure is for selecting bearings using a new crankshaft.

Select the crankshaft main bearings for each crankshaft journal.
1. Read the code on the crankshaft flange.
2. Read the code on the cylinder block face.
3. The first letter after the first asterisk makes up the code for main No. 1 and the next letter for main No. 2. The first letter after the second asterisk makes up the code for main No. 3 and the last letter for main No. 4.
NOTE: This chart is for selecting main bearings 1 and 4 only, the remaining bearings will be selected using a different chart in the next step.

Using the data recorded earlier and the Bearing Select Fit Chart, Standard Bearings, determine the required bearing grade for main bearings 1 and 4.
- Read the first letter of the engine block main bearing code and the first letter of the crankshaft main bearing code.
- Read down the column below the engine block main bearing code letter and across the row next to the crankshaft main bearing code letter, until the 2 intersect. This is the required bearing grade(s) for the No. 1 crankshaft main bearing.
- As an example, if the engine block code letter is "F" and the crankshaft code letter is "P", the correct bearing grade for this main bearing is a "1" for the upper bearing and a "2" for the lower bearing.
- Repeat the above steps using the fourth letter of the block and crankshaft codes to select the No. 4 bearing.
NOTE: This chart is for selecting main bearings 2 and 3 only.

Using the data recorded earlier and the Bearing Select Fit Chart, Standard Bearings, determine the required bearing grade for main bearings 2 and 3.
- Read the second letter of the engine block main bearing code and the second letter of the crankshaft main bearing code.
- Read down the column below the engine block main bearing code letter and across the row next to the crankshaft main bearing code letter, until the 2 intersect. This is the required bearing grade for the No. 2 crankshaft main bearing.
- As an example, if the engine block code letter is "F" and the crankshaft code letter is "P", the correct bearing grade for this main bearing is "1".
- Repeat the above steps using the third letter of the block and crankshaft codes to select the No. 3.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.

Using the original connecting rod cap bolts, install the connecting rod caps and bolts. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Measure the connecting rod large end bore in 2 directions.
1. Remove the bolts and the rod cap.
2. Discard the connecting rod cap bolts.
Measure each of the crankshaft connecting rod bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions.
Using the chart, select the correct connecting rod bearings for each crankshaft connecting rod journal.
NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free of chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.

Lubricate the upper crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 4 crankshaft main bearings in the cylinder block.
NOTE: Do not install the upper thrust bearings until the crankshaft is installed.

NOTE: Lubricate the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft with clean engine oil.

Install the crankshaft onto the upper main bearings.
NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.

Push the crankshaft rearward and install the rear crankshaft upper thrust washer at the back of the No. 4 rear bulkhead.
NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.

Push the crankshaft forward and install the front crankshaft upper thrust washer at the front of the No. 4 rear bulkhead.
Lubricate the crankshaft lower main bearings with clean engine oil and install them into the main bearing caps. Visually check seating and squareness of the bearings to make sure of proper seating in caps.
Position the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 main bearing caps on the cylinder block and, keeping the caps as square as possible, alternately draw the caps down evenly using the new bolts until the main bearing caps are seated.
NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.

NOTE: To aid in assembly, apply petroleum jelly to the back of the crankshaft thrust washer.

Install the lower crankshaft thrust washer to the back side of the No. 4 rear main bearing cap, with the tab aligned with the cutout in the main bearing cap.
Position main bearing cap No. 4 on the cylinder block and keeping the cap as square as possible, alternately draw the cap down evenly using the new bolts until the main bearing cap is seated.
- Loosen the No. 4 main bearing cap bolts.
NOTE: While tightening the main bearing vertical bolts, push the crankshaft forward and the No. 4 main bearing cap rearward to seat the crankshaft thrust washers.

Tighten the main bearing bolts in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 33 Nm (24 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 135 degrees.
Install the new 8 main bearing cap side bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 180 degrees.
Using 100-002 TOOL-4201-C, measure crankshaft end play.
1. Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block.
2. Zero 100-002 TOOL-4201-C.
3. Move the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block. Note and record the crankshaft end play.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.

Prepare the connecting rod and cap.
1. Insert the new bolts in the rod cap.
2. Insert the upper and lower rod bearings into the rod and cap.
Before installing the pistons into the cylinder block, verify proper ring gap location.
1. Center line of the piston parallel to the wrist pin bore.
2. Upper compression ring gap location.
3. Upper oil control segment ring gap location.
4. Lower oil control segment ring gap location.
5. Expander ring and lower compression ring gap location.
NOTE: Be sure not to scratch the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal with the connecting rod. Push the piston down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.

NOTE: The next 2 steps are for all 6 connecting rods, rod caps and pistons. Only 1 connecting rod, rod cap and piston is shown in illustration.

NOTE: Lubricate the pistons, piston rings, connecting rod bearings and the entire cylinder bores with clean engine oil.

NOTE: Make sure the piston rings are positioned to specifications for installation. For additional information, refer to the PISTON information.

NOTE: If the piston and or connecting rod are being installed new, the piston rod orientation marks and the arrow on the top of the dome of the piston should be facing toward the front of the engine block.

NOTE: If the piston and connecting rod are to be reinstalled, they must be installed in the same orientation as disassembled.

Using the Piston Ring Compressor, install the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
- Seat the connecting rod on the crankshaft journal.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: After installation of each piston, connecting rod, rod cap and bolts, rotate the crankshaft to verify smooth operation.

Install the connecting rod cap and bolts. Tighten the bolts in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional degrees (90).
- Repeat the previous 4 steps until all 6 piston, connecting rod and connecting rod cap assemblies are installed.
Install the main bearing cap support brace and the new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 steps.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 180 degrees.
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.

NOTE: The crankshaft rear seal retainer must be installed and the bolts tightened within 4 minutes of sealant application.

NOTE: Cast aluminum (early build) crankshaft rear seal retainer plate shown in illustration, stamped steel (late build) crankshaft rear seal retainer plate is similar.

Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the crankshaft rear seal retainer.
Install the crankshaft rear seal retainer and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the oil pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Using a new O-ring seal, install the oil pump screen and pickup tube and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: The A/C compressor must be installed on the cylinder block and the 2 bolts tightened prior to installing the oil pan.

Install the A/C compressor and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.

Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the oil pan.
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.

NOTE: The oil pan and the 4 specified bolts must be installed and the oil pan aligned to the cylinder block and A/C compressor within 4 minutes of sealant application. Final tightening of the oil pan bolts must be carried out within 60 minutes of sealant application.

Apply a 5.5 mm (0.22 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the 2 crankshaft seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block joint areas on the sealing surface of the oil pan.
NOTE: The oil pan and the 4 specified bolts must be installed within 4 minutes of the start of sealant application.

Install the oil pan and bolts 10, 11, 13 and 14.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Loosen the bolts 180 degrees.
Align the oil pan to the cylinder block and the A/C compressor.
- Position the oil pan so the mounting boss is against the A/C compressor and using a straightedge, align the oil pan flush with the rear of the cylinder block at the 2 areas shown in illustration.
Tighten bolts 10, 11, 13 and 14 in the sequence shown in illustration, to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
Install the remaining oil pan bolts. Tighten all the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Stage 1: Tighten the large bolts (1-14) to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten the small bolts (15 and 16) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the A/C compressor mounting stud and nut.
- Tighten the stud to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) and the nut to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Install the coolant pump and the 8 bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 45 degrees.
Install the KS and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
NOTE: Apply clean engine coolant to the O-ring seal prior to installation.

Using a new O-ring seal, install the coolant inlet tube and thermostat assembly.
Install a new gasket, the RH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 45 degrees.
Install the M6 bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install a new gasket, the LH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 45 degrees.
Install the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions.

NOTE: Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.

NOTE: LH shown in illustration, RH similar.

Install the valve tappets.
NOTE: Align the bracket with the index mark made during removal.

Install the upper intake manifold bracket and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the engine lifting eye and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Install the RH primary timing chain guide and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: The crankshaft must remain in the freewheeling position (crankshaft dowel pin at 9 o'clock) until after the camshafts are installed and the valve clearance is checked/adjusted. Do not turn the crankshaft until instructed to do so. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage.

Position the crankshaft dowel pin in the 9 o'clock position.
NOTE: Coat the camshafts with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Position the camshafts onto the RH cylinder head in the neutral position as shown in illustration.
NOTE: The camshaft seal gaps must be at the 12 o'clock position or damage to the engine may occur.

Position the 4 camshaft seal gaps as shown in illustration.
NOTE: Cylinder head camshaft bearing caps are numbered to verify that they are assembled in their original positions.

Install the 6 camshaft caps, mega cap, valve train oil tube and the 15 bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) then an additional 45 degrees.
Loosen the 4 camshaft caps bolts.
Tighten the 4 camshaft caps bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Tighten bolts 8, 9, 10 and 11 to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) then an additional 45 degrees.
NOTE: If any components are installed new, the engine valve clearance must be checked/adjusted or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.

Using a feeler gauge, confirm that the valve tappet clearances are within specification. If valve tappet clearances are not within specification, the clearance must be adjusted by installing new valve tappet (s) of the correct size.
Remove the 3 bolts and the RH valve train oil tube.
Rotate the RH camshafts to the TDC position as shown in illustration.
NOTE: The 303-1248 will hold the camshafts in the TDC position.

Install 303-1248 onto the flats of the RH camshafts.
Compress the RH secondary timing chain tensioner and install 303-1530 to retain the tensioner in the collapsed position.
Assemble the RH VCT assembly, the RH exhaust camshaft sprocket and the RH secondary timing chain.
- Align the colored links with the timing marks.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the camshafts slightly, to install the RH secondary timing assembly.

Position the 2 RH VCT assemblies and secondary timing chain onto the camshafts by aligning the holes in the VCT assemblies with the dowel pins in the camshafts.
Install the 2 new RH VCT bolts and tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Tighten an additional 180 degrees.
NOTE: The 2 VCT oil control solenoids are removed for clarity.

Compress the RH secondary timing chain tensioner and remove the Secondary Chain Hold Down.
- Make sure the secondary timing chain is centered on the timing chain tensioner guides.
NOTE: Coat the camshafts with clean engine oil prior to installation.

Position the camshafts onto the LH cylinder head in the neutral position as shown in illustration.
NOTE: The camshaft seal gaps must be at the 12 o'clock position or damage to the engine may occur.

Position the 4 camshaft seals gaps as shown in illustration.
NOTE: Cylinder head camshaft bearing caps are numbered to verify that they are assembled in their original positions.

Install the 6 camshaft caps, mega cap, valve train oil tube and the 15 bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
Loosen the 4 camshaft caps bolts.
Tighten the 4 camshaft caps bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Tighten bolts 8, 9, 10 and 11 to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) then an additional 45 degrees.
NOTE: If any components are installed new, the engine valve clearance must be checked/adjusted or engine damage may occur.

NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.

Using a feeler gauge, confirm that the valve tappet clearances are within specification. If valve tappet clearances are not within specification, the clearance must be adjusted by installing new valve tappet (s) of the correct size.
Remove the 3 bolts and the LH valve train oil tube.
Rotate the LH camshafts to the TDC position as shown in illustration.
NOTE: The 303-1248 will hold the camshafts in the TDC position.

Install 303-1248 onto the flats of the LH camshafts.
Compress the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and install the 303-1530 to retain the tensioner in the collapsed position.
Assemble the 2 LH VCT assemblies and the LH secondary timing chain.
- Align the colored links with the timing marks.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the camshafts slightly, to install the LH secondary timing assembly.

Position the 2 LH VCT assemblies and secondary timing chain onto the camshafts by aligning the holes in the VCT assemblies with the dowel pins in the camshafts.
Install the 2 new LH VCT bolts and tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Tighten an additional 180 degrees.
NOTE: The 2 VCT oil control solenoids are removed for clarity.

Compress the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and remove the 303-1530.
- Make sure the secondary timing chain is centered on the timing chain tensioner guides.
Install the LH upper primary timing chain guide and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 60 degrees to the TDC position (crankshaft dowel pin at 11 o'clock).
Install the crankshaft timing chain sprocket.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the camshafts slightly, to align the timing marks.

Install the primary timing chain with the colored links aligned with the timing marks on the VCT assemblies and the crankshaft sprocket.
Install the lower LH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the primary timing chain tensioner arm.
Reset the primary timing chain tensioner.
- Release the ratchet detent.
- Using a soft-jawed vise, compress the ratchet plunger.
- Align the hole in the ratchet plunger with the hole in the tensioner housing.
- Install a suitable lockpin.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the camshafts slightly to remove slack from the timing chain to install the tensioner.

Install the primary tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Remove the lockpin.
As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.
- There are 48 links in between the RH intake VCT assembly colored link (1) and the LH intake VCT assembly colored link (2).
- There are 35 links in between LH intake VCT assembly colored link (2) and the 2 crankshaft sprocket links (3).
NOTE: Do not use excessive force when installing the VCT oil control solenoid. Damage to the mega cap could cause the cylinder head to be inoperable. If difficult to install the VCT oil control solenoid, inspect the bore and VCT oil control solenoid to ensure there are no burrs, sharp edges or contaminants present on the mating surface. Only clean the external surfaces as necessary.

NOTE: A slight twisting motion will aid in the installation of the VCT oil control solenoid.

NOTE: Keep the VCT oil control solenoid clean of dirt and debris.

Install the LH intake VCT oil control solenoid and the bolt.
- Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) then an additional 20 degrees.
NOTE: Do not use excessive force when installing the VCT oil control solenoid. Damage to the mega cap could cause the cylinder head to be inoperable. If difficult to install the VCT oil control solenoid, inspect the bore and VCT oil control solenoid to ensure there are no burrs, sharp edges or contaminants present on the mating surface. Only clean the external surfaces as necessary.

NOTE: A slight twisting motion will aid in the installation of the VCT oil control solenoid.

NOTE: Keep the VCT oil control solenoid clean of dirt and debris.

Install the RH intake VCT oil control solenoid and the bolt.
- Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in) then an additional 20 degrees.
Remove the RH 303-1248.
Install the RH valve train oil tube and the 3 bolts and tighten in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 45 degrees.
Remove the LH 303-1248.
Install the LH valve train oil tube and the 3 bolts and tighten in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 45 degrees.
NOTE: Place clean, lint-free shop towels over exposed engine cavities. Carefully remove the towels so foreign material is not dropped into the engine. Any foreign material (including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces) that enters the oil passages or the oil pan, may cause engine failure.

NOTE: Do not use wire brushes, power abrasive discs or 3M Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white part number 07528) to clean the sealing surfaces of engine block, cylinder heads, and oil pan. These tools can cause contamination that will cause premature engine failure. Remove all traces of the gasket.

Clean the sealing surfaces of the cylinder heads, the cylinder block and the oil pan in the following sequence.
1. Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material.
2. Apply Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover and allow to set for several minutes.
3. Remove the Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover. A second application of Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
4. Apply Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep to remove any remaining traces of oil or coolant and to prepare the surfaces to bond. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
NOTE: Make sure the 2 locating dowel pins are seated correctly in the cylinder block.

Install 307-399.
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.

NOTE: The engine front cover and bolts 7, 8, 15, 17, 18, 21 and 22 must be installed within 4 minutes of the initial sealant application. The remainder of the engine front cover bolts must be installed and tightened within 35 minutes of the initial sealant application. If the time limits are exceeded, the sealant must be removed, the sealing area cleaned and sealant reapplied. To clean the sealing area, use Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover and Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.

Apply a 3 mm (0.1181 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the front cover.
- Apply a 5.5 mm (0.22 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the oil pan-to-cylinder block joint and the cylinder head-to-cylinder block joint areas of the engine front cover in 5 places as indicated.
NOTE: Make sure the 2 locating dowel pins are seated correctly in the cylinder block.

Install the engine front cover and bolts 7, 8, 15, 17, 18, 21 and 22.
- Tighten in sequence shown in illustration to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
Remove 307-399.
Install the M6 engine front cover bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
Install the 2 upper M10 engine front cover bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
Install the lower M10 bolt. Do not tighten at this time.
Install the remaining engine front cover bolts. Tighten all of the engine front cover bolts in the sequence shown in illustration in 7 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten bolts 1 thru 22 to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten bolts 23 thru 25 to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
- Stage 3: Tighten bolt 26 to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 4: Loosen bolt 26 one full turn.
- Stage 5: Tighten bolts 23 thru 25 to 30 Nm (22 lb-ft) plus an additional 90 degrees.
- Stage 6: Tighten bolts 1 thru 22 to 20 Nm (177 lb-in) plus an additional 45 degrees.
- Stage 7: Tighten bolt 26 to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) plus an additional 45 degrees.
NOTE: Installation of new seals is only required if damaged seals were removed.

Using 303-1247/2 and 205-153 T80T-4000-W install the new spark plug tube seal(s).
NOTE: Installation of new seals is only required if damaged seals were removed.

Using 205-142 T80T-4000-J and 205-153 T80T-4000-W install the new VCT seal(s).
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.

NOTE: If the valve cover is not installed and the fasteners tightened within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover and Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.

Apply an 8 mm (0.315 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover-to-Right Hand (RH) cylinder head joints.
Using a new gasket, install the RH valve cover and tighten the 3 bolts and 8 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Make sure the VCT seals in the valve cover are below the top of the VCT oil control solenoid electrical connector or the VCT seal may leak oil.
Install the PCV crankcase vent tube.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the ignition coil-on-plug boots before attaching to the spark plugs.

Install the 3 RH coil-on-plugs and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
NOTE: Installation of new seals is only required if damaged seals were removed.

Using 303-1247/2 and 205-153 T80T-4000-W install the new spark plug tube seal(s).
NOTE: Installation of new seals is only required if damaged seals were removed.

Using 205-142 T80T-4000-J and 205-153 T80T-4000-W install the new VCT seal(s).
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.

NOTE: If the valve cover is not installed and the fasteners tightened within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket Remover and Motorcraft® Metal Surface Prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.

Apply an 8 mm (0.315 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover-to-Left Hand (LH) cylinder head joints.
Using a new gasket, install the LH valve cover and tighten the 4 bolts and 7 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Make sure the VCT seals in the valve cover are below the top of the VCT oil control solenoid electrical connector or the VCT seal may leak oil.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the inside of the ignition coil-on-plug boots before attaching to the spark plugs.

Install the 3 LH coil-on-plugs and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
NOTE: Apply Thread Sealant with PTFE to the EOP switch threads.

Install the EOP switch.
- Tighten to 14 Nm (124 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
Using a new gasket, install the oil filter adapter and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) plus an additional 45 degrees.
NOTE: A new oil cooler must be installed or severe damage to the engine may occur.

Install a new oil cooler, new gaskets and the 6 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install and connect the CHT sensor jumper harness.
NOTE: Apply clean engine coolant to the O-ring seal prior to installation.

Using a new O-ring seal, install the coolant inlet tube and thermostat assembly.
NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.

Using new intake manifold and thermostat housing gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the 2 thermostat housing-to-lower intake manifold bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the 2 bolts and the 2 LH CMP sensors.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the 2 bolts and the 2 RH CMP sensors.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the cover and the pin-type retainer.
Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
- Tighten to 16 Nm (142 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
If equipped, install the block heater wiring harness onto the engine.
- Stage 1: Tighten the cylinder block drain plug to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
- Stage 2: Tighten the block heater to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
If equipped with FWD, install 6 new RH catalytic converter manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
NOTE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak.

If equipped with FWD, using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
If equipped with FWD, install the RH catalytic converter manifold heat shield, CMS wiring harness bracket and the 4 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install 6 new LH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and 3 new lower LH catalytic converter manifold-to-cylinder head nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration:
- Stage 1: Tighten the 3 lower LH catalytic converter manifold-to-cylinder head nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Install the 3 new upper nuts and tighten the upper LH catalytic converter manifold-to-cylinder head nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Install the LH exhaust heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
NOTE: Apply High Temperature Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant to the threads of the HO2S prior to installing.

Install the LH HO2S .
- Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Connect the EOP switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
Install the generator stud, generator and the nut and bolt.
- Tighten the stud to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
- Tighten the nut and bolt to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).
Connect the generator B+ cable and install the nut.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).
Position back the generator B+ cable cover and connect the generator electrical connector.
Connect the 2 A/C compressor electrical connector.
- Attach the wiring harness retainer.
Install the CKP sensor and install the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector.
Install the wiring harness grommet.
Install the wiring harness retainer stud bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the heat shield, the nut and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the ground cable and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Connect the KS electrical connector.
Connect the 2 RH CMP sensor electrical connectors.
Connect the CMS electrical connector and attach the wiring harness retainer to the RH valve cover.
- Connect the 2 VCT oil control solenoid electrical connectors.
- Connect the 3 fuel injector electrical connectors.
- Connect the CHT sensor wiring harness jumper electrical connector.
- Attach the 9 wiring harness retainers.
Using a new gasket, install the intake manifold, the 7 bolts and tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 45 degrees.
Install the upper intake manifold support bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Connect the crankcase ventilation hose to the upper intake manifold.
Attach the 2 wiring harness/coolant tube retainers to the upper intake manifold.
Connect the EVAP tube to the EVAP canister purge valve. REFER to QUICK CONNECT COUPLING .
- Attach the EVAP vapor tube to the 2 retainers.
Connect the EVAP canister purge valve and throttle body electrical connectors.
- Attach the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
Connect the LH CMS electrical connector.
- Install the wiring harness retainer to the rear of the LH cylinder head.
Connect the 2 LH CMP sensor electrical connectors.
Connect the 2 VCT oil control solenoid electrical connectors.
- Connect the 3 fuel injector electrical connectors.
- Connect the LH HO2S electrical connector and attach the wiring harness connector pin-type retainer to the LH valve cover.
- Attach the 10 wiring harness pin-type retainers.
Position the wire harness ground to the engine front cover and install the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Install the oil level indicator.
Install the crankcase vent tube. REFER to QUICK CONNECT COUPLING .
NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the crankshaft front seal bore in the engine front cover.

Using the 303-102 T74P-6316-B and 303-1251, install a new crankshaft front seal.
NOTE: Lubricate the crankshaft front seal inner lip with clean engine oil.

NOTE: Lubricate the outside diameter sealing surfaces with clean engine oil.

Using the 303-102 T74P-6316-B and 303-335 T88T-6701-A, install the crankshaft pulley.
Using the 303-D055 D85L-6000-A, install the crankshaft pulley washer and new bolt and tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 120 Nm (89 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).
If equipped, position the block heater wiring harness onto the engine and attach all of the harness retainers.
- Connect the block heater electrical connector.
If equipped, install the block heater heat shield.
Install 303-1245 on the LH cylinder head.
Using 300-OTC1819E and 303-D089 D93P-6001-A3, remove the engine from the stand.
NOTE: Lubricate the seal lips and bore with clean engine oil prior to installation.

If equipped with a cast aluminum crankshaft rear seal retainer plate, position 303-1250 onto the end of the crankshaft and slide a new crankshaft rear seal onto 303-1250.
If equipped with a cast aluminum crankshaft rear seal retainer plate, use 303-1250 and 205-153 T80T-4000-W to install the new crankshaft rear seal.
Install the crankshaft sensor ring.
NOTE: One of the 8 flexplate holes are offset so the flexplate can only be installed in one position.

Install the flexplate and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).