Exhaust Y-Pipe - 3.0L: Installation
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2010 Mercury Mariner and 2010 Ford Escape. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
- Inspect the exhaust Y-pipe flange studs for damage.
- If damaged, replace stud(s), or if stud comes out when removing nut(s), replace the stud(s).
- If replacing the Y-pipe flange stud(s), use the C-Frame and Screw Installer/Remover to push the 10-mm stud(s) out of the flange.
- If replacing the exhaust Y-pipe flange stud(s), use a C-clamp and a deep well socket to push the 10-mm stud fully into the flange.
- Make sure the stud is fully and evenly seated into the flange.
- Install a new converter-to-exhaust Y-pipe gasket.
- Install the 2 new 10-mm catalytic converter-to-exhaust Y-pipe spring nuts and alternately tighten RH side to LH side in sequence in 3 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install a new gasket, the exhaust Y-pipe and 4 new nuts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE:
When positioning the new 10-mm stud in the exhaust Y-pipe flange, make sure to line up the new stud seat knurls with witness knurl grooves in the exhaust Y-pipe flange.
NOTE:
Replace the gasket by hand. Do not rotate the gasket back and forth during installation. Doing so may lessen the gaskets ability to seal and stay correctly positioned during assembly.
NOTE:
Thoroughly clean the sealing surfaces of the flanges using a finishing pad. Inspect the cleaned sealing surface for nicks and scratches and replace as necessary.