Intake Manifold
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2010 Mercury Milan and 2010 Ford Fusion. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
ITEM DESCRIPTION TABLE
| Item | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 9288 | Fuel supply tube |
| 2 | 8K556 | Coolant outlet |
| 3 | 9D475 | EGR valve |
| 4 | 9F991 | Electronic Throttle Body (TB) |
| 5 | 6051 | Cylinder head gasket |
| 6 | 6010 | Cylinder block |
| 7 | 12A699 | Knock Sensor (KS) |
| 8 | 9424 | Intake manifold |
| 9 | 9439 | Intake manifold gasket (4 required) |
| 10 | 8A582 | Coolant hose |
| 11 | 6049 | Cylinder head |
| 12 | 9F593 | Fuel injector (4 required) |
| 13 | 9H487 | Fuel rail |
| 14 | - | Fuel rail insulator |
NOTE:
Do not loosen or remove the crankshaft pulley bolt without first installing the special tools as instructed in this procedure. The crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft timing sprocket are not keyed to the crankshaft. The crankshaft, the crankshaft sprocket and the pulley are fitted together by friction, using diamond washers between the flange faces on each part. For that reason, the crankshaft sprocket is also unfastened if the pulley bolt is loosened. Before any repair requiring loosening or removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt, the crankshaft and camshafts must be locked in place by the special service tools or severe engine damage can occur.
NOTE:
Early build vehicle (built before July 6, 2009) cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Late build vehicle (built on or after July 6, 2009) cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft® Specialty Green Engine Coolant. Mixing coolant types degrades the corrosion protection of the coolant. Do not mix coolant types. Failure to follow these instructions may result in engine or cooling system damage.
NOTE:
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.
NOTE:
Assembly of the engine requires various inspections/measurements of the engine components (engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and piston rings). These inspections/measurements will aid in determining if the engine components will require replacement. For additional information, refer to GENERAL PROCEDURES
.
- Install the 4 oil squirters.
- Tighten to 4 Nm (35 lb-in).
NOTE: If the oil squirters are being reused, they must be installed in the same location as marked during disassembly.NOTE: The front bulkhead does not have an oil squirter. - Measure each of the crankshaft main bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions and record the smallest diameter for each journal.
- Position the main bearing beam in the engine block with the main bearing beam mounted flush with the rear face of the engine block.
- Using the original main bearing beam bolts, install and tighten the 10 main bearing beam bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Measure each crankshaft block main bearing bore diameter.
- Remove the bolts and the main bearing beam.
- Discard the main bearing beam bolts.
- Using the table, select the crankshaft main bearings.
- Using the original connecting rod cap bolts, install the connecting caps and bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 29 Nm (21 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur. - Measure the connecting rod large end bore in 2 directions. Record the smallest measurement for each connecting rod.
- Remove the bolts and the connecting rod cap.
- Discard the connecting rod cap bolts.
- Measure each of the crankshaft connecting rod bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions. Record the smallest measurement for each connecting rod journal.
- Using the table, select the correct connecting rod bearings for each crankshaft connecting rod journal.
- Lubricate the upper crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 5 crankshaft main bearings in the cylinder block.NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free of chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.NOTE: If reusing the crankshaft main bearings, install them in their original positions and orientation as noted during disassembly.NOTE: The center bulkhead is the thrust bearing.
- Lubricate the crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 5 crankshaft main bearings in the main bearing beam.NOTE: If reusing the crankshaft main bearings, install them in their original positions and orientation as noted during disassembly.
- Lubricate journals on the crankshaft with clean engine oil.
- Position the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
- Lubricate the 10 main bearing beam side fit surfaces (front 2 shown) with clean engine oil.
- Lubricate the crankshaft bearing journals on the main bearing beam with clean engine oil. Then position the main bearing beam in the engine block with the main bearing beam mounted flush with the rear face of the engine block.
- Install and tighten the 10 new main bearing beam bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
NOTE: Lubricate the main bearing beam bolts threads and under the bolt heads with clean engine oil.NOTE: Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block, then position the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block before tightening the main bearing beam bolts. - Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure crankshaft end play.
- Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block.
- Zero the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture.
- Move the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block. Note and record the crankshaft end play.
- Acceptable crankshaft end play is 0.22-0.43 mm (0.008-0.016 in). If the crankshaft end play exceeds the specified range, install new parts as necessary.
- Using the Piston Ring Compressor and the Connecting Rod Installer, install the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
- When installing the pistons and connecting rod assemblies, the oil ring gaps must be positioned 60 degrees apart from each other and a minimum of 90 degrees from the expander gap.
- The position of the upper and lower compression ring gaps are not controlled for installation.
NOTE: Be sure not to scratch the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal with the connecting rod. Push the piston down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.NOTE: Lubricate the pistons, piston rings, connecting rod bearings and the entire cylinder bores with clean engine oil.NOTE: Make sure the piston arrow on top is facing toward the front of the engine. - Install the connecting rod caps and the new bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 29 Nm (21 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Install connecting rod caps and bolts on the connecting rods for cylinders 1 and 4 first and tighten. Then rotate crankshaft 180 degrees and install connecting rod caps and bolts on connecting rods for cylinders 2 and 3 and tighten.NOTE: After installation of each connecting rod cap, rotate the crankshaft to verify smooth operation. - Install the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg and rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise until the crankshaft balance weight is up against the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg. The engine is now at Top Dead Center (TDC).
- Install the adjustment shims in their original position on the seat faces of the balancer unit.NOTE: Due to the precision interior construction of the balancer unit, it should not be disassembled.NOTE: The original adjustment shims must be installed in their original position.NOTE: Confirm by visual inspection that there is no damage to the balancer unit gear and verify that the shaft turns smoothly. If there is any damage or malfunction, replace the balancer unit.
- With the balancer unit shaft marks in the TDC position, slowly install the balancer unit to the cylinder block to avoid interference between the crankshaft drive gear and the balancer unit driven gear.
- Install the balancer unit bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Tighten in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
- Remove the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
- Rotate the crankshaft to confirm that there are no meshing problems between the balancer unit gear and the crankshaft gear.
- Install the Crankshaft TDC
Timing Peg and rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise until the crankshaft balance weight is up against the Crankshaft TDC
Timing Peg.
- Remove the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
- Position the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture as shown. Measure the gear backlash.NOTE: Measure the backlash and verify that it is within specified range at all of the following 6 positions: 10 degrees, 30 degrees, 100 degrees, 190 degrees, 210 degrees and 280 degrees. It will be necessary to reset the measuring equipment between measurements.NOTE: The measurement must be taken with the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, a 5-mm Allen wrench and worm clamp set up as shown. Mark the Allen wrench with a file 80 mm (3.149 in) above the driven gear shaft center. Make sure the worm clamp and Allen wrench are not touching the balance shaft housing.NOTE: For an accurate measurement while measuring the gear backlash, insert a screwdriver as shown into the crankshaft No. 1 crankweight area and set both the rotation and the thrust direction with the screwdriver, using a prying action as shown.
- Position the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture (1) on the Allen wrench 80 mm (3.149 in) above the driven gear shaft center (2) on the balancer unit.
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and measure the backlash at all of the following 6 positions: 10 degrees, 30 degrees, 100 degrees, 190 degrees, 210 degrees and 280 degrees.
- Backlash specifications are 0.005 to 0.101 mm (0.00019 to 0.0039 in).
- If the backlash exceeds the specified range, carry out the balance shaft backlash procedure. For additional information, refer to BALANCE SHAFT BACKLASH procedure.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC).NOTE: Failure to position the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) can result in damage to the engine. Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation only.
- Install the Crankshaft TDC
Timing Peg.NOTE: The Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg will contact the crankshaft and prevent it from turning past TDC . However, the crankshaft can still be rotated in the counterclockwise direction. The crankshaft must remain at the TDC position until the timing drive components and crankshaft pulley are installed.
- Install the block-off plate and bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the oil pump assembly. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in the following 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
NOTE: Clean the oil pump and cylinder block mating surfaces with metal surface prep. - Install a new oil pump pickup tube gasket and the pickup tube.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using the Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal Installer, install the crankshaft rear oil seal with retainer.
- Tighten the crankshaft rear oil seal with retainer bolts in the sequence shown.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Clean and inspect all mating surfaces.NOTE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool and metal surface cleaner to remove traces of sealant.
- Apply a 2.5 mm (0.09 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the oil pan.NOTE: If the oil pan is not secured within 4 minutes of sealant application, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with metal surface prep. Allow to dry until there is no sign of wetness, or 4 minutes, whichever is longer. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
- Install the oil pan and install the 2 oil pan bolts finger-tight.
- Using a suitable straightedge, align the front surface of the oil pan flush with the front surface of the engine block.
- Install the remaining oil pan bolts and tighten the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown below.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the cylinder head alignment dowels. Dowels must be fully seated in the cylinder block.
- Clean the cylinder head-to-cylinder block mating surface of both the cylinder head and the cylinder block in the following sequence.
- Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material with a plastic scraper.
- Apply silicone gasket remover, following package directions, and allow to set for several minutes.
- Remove the silicone gasket remover with a plastic scraper. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
- Apply metal surface prep, following package directions, to remove any traces of oil or coolant, and to prepare the surfaces to bond with the new gasket. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
NOTE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of the head gasket.NOTE: Observe all warnings and cautions and follow all application directions contained on the packaging of the silicone gasket remover and the metal surface prep.NOTE: If there is no residual gasket material present, metal surface prep can be used to clean and prepare the surfaces. - Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the locations shown below.
- Install a new head gasket.
- Install the cylinder head and 10 new bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in the following 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Turn 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Turn an additional 90 degrees.
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are torque-to-yield and must not be reused. New cylinder head bolts must be installed. - Install the valve tappets.NOTE: Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.
- Install the camshafts and bearing caps in their original location and orientation. Tighten the bearing caps in the sequence shown in 3 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten 1 turn at a time until tight.
- Stage 2: Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 16 Nm (142 lb-in).
NOTE: Install the camshafts with the alignment slots in the camshafts lined up so the Camshaft Alignment Plate can be installed without rotating the camshafts. Make sure the lobes on the No. 1 cylinder are in the same position as noted in the disassembly procedure. Rotating the camshafts when the timing chain is removed, or installing the camshafts 180 degrees out of position, can cause severe damage to the valves and pistons.NOTE: Lubricate the camshaft journals and bearing caps with clean engine oil. - Install the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) system oil filter and plug in the intake camshaft thrust cap.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).
- Install the VCT
solenoid and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the crankshaft sprocket, new crankshaft sprocket diamond washers, oil pump chain and oil pump sprocket.
- The crankshaft sprocket flange must be facing away from the engine block.
NOTE: Install a new crankshaft sprocket diamond washer on both sides of the crankshaft sprocket. - Install the oil pump chain, sprocket and bolt.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the shoulder bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the oil pump chain tensioner and bolt. Hook the tensioner spring around the shoulder bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the Camshaft Alignment Plate in the slots on the rear of both camshafts.NOTE: The Camshaft Alignment Plate 303-465 is for camshaft alignment only. Using this tool to prevent engine rotation can result in engine damage.
- Install the camshaft sprockets and the bolts. Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
- Install the LH timing chain guide and the bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the timing chain.
- Install the RH timing chain guide.
NOTE: If the timing chain tensioner plunger and ratchet assembly are not pinned in the compressed position, follow the next 4 steps.
- Using the edge of a vise, compress the timing chain tensioner plunger.NOTE: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.
- Using a small pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.
- While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.
- Install a paper clip into the hole in the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and the plunger in during installation.
- Install the timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts. Remove the paper clip to release the piston.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using the flats on the camshafts to prevent camshaft rotation, tighten the bolts.
- Tighten to 72 Nm (53 lb-ft).
NOTE: The Camshaft Alignment Plate 303-465 is for camshaft alignment only. Using this tool to prevent engine rotation can result in engine damage. - Clean and inspect the mounting surfaces of the engine and the front cover.NOTE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive disks or other abrasive means to clean sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths.
- Apply a 2.5 mm (0.09 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the cylinder head and oil pan joint areas. Apply a 2.5 mm (0.09 in) bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the front cover.NOTE: The engine front cover must be installed and the bolts tightened within 4 minutes of applying the silicone gasket and sealant.
- Install the engine front cover. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown below, to the following specifications:
- Tighten the 8-mm bolts to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Tighten the 13-mm bolts to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Using the Camshaft Front Oil Seal Installer, install the crankshaft front seal.NOTE: Remove the through bolt from the Camshaft Front Oil Seal Installer.NOTE: Lubricate the oil seal with clean engine oil.
- Position the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft with the hole in the pulley at the 6 o'clock position.NOTE: Do not install the crankshaft pulley bolt at this time.NOTE: Apply clean engine oil on the seal area before installing.
- Install a standard 6-mm x 18-mm bolt through the crankshaft pulley and thread it into the front cover.NOTE: Only hand-tighten the 6-mm bolt or damage to the front cover can occur.NOTE: This step will correctly align the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft.
- Install a new crankshaft pulley bolt. Using the Crankshaft Damper Holding Tool to hold the crankshaft pulley in place, tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 100 Nm (74 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees (one-fourth turn).
NOTE: The crankshaft must remain in the Top Dead Center (TDC) position during installation of the pulley bolt or damage to the engine can occur. Therefore, the crankshaft pulley must be held in place with the Crankshaft Damper Holding Tool and the bolt should be installed using hand tools only.NOTE: Do not reuse the crankshaft pulley bolt. - Remove the 6-mm x 18-mm bolt.
- Remove the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
- Remove the Camshaft Alignment Plate.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise one and three-fourth turns.NOTE: Only turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation.
- Install the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft contacts the Crankshaft TDC
Timing Peg.NOTE: Only turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation.
- Using the 6-mm x 18-mm bolt, check the position of the crankshaft pulley.
- If it is not possible to install the bolt, the engine valve timing must be corrected.
NOTE: Only hand-tighten the bolt or damage to the front cover can occur. - Install the Camshaft Alignment Plate to check the position of the camshafts.
- If it is not possible to install the Camshaft Alignment Plate, the engine valve timing must be corrected.
- Remove the Camshaft Alignment Plate.
- Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and the 2 bolts.
- Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
- Using the Crankshaft Sensor Aligner, adjust the CKP sensor.
- Tighten the 2 CKP bolts to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
- Remove the 6-mm x 18-mm bolt.
- Remove the Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg.
- Install the engine plug bolt.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Clean the valve cover gasket surface with metal surface prep.NOTE: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths.
- Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the locations shown.
- Install the valve cover.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: The valve cover must be secured within 4 minutes of silicone gasket application. If the valve cover is not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned with metal surface cleaner. - Install the oil level indicator.NOTE: Make sure the notch on the oil level indicator is aligned with the V-shaped boss on the valve cover and fully engaged into the valve cover.
- Install the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
- Install the 4 coil-on-plugs and the 4 bolts. Install the crankshaft vent tube.
- Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
NOTE: Apply dielectric compound to the inside of the coil-on-plug boots. - Install the engine cover studs (one shown).
- Install the crankshaft vent tube.
- If equipped, install the block heater.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Install the oil filter adapter with a new gasket.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE: Clean the gasket mating surfaces with metal surface prep. - Install the crankcase vent oil separator and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the KS
and the bolt.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
NOTE: The Knock Sensor (KS) must not touch the crankcase vent oil separator. - Install the coolant hose.
- Install the thermostat housing.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: Clean and inspect the thermostat housing gasket. Install a new gasket if necessary. - Install the new O-ring, coolant pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: Make sure the coolant pump is correctly seated to the engine block before installing and tightening the fasteners, or damage to the coolant pump may occur.NOTE: Clean the coolant pump mating surface with metal surface cleaner.NOTE: Lubricate the coolant pump O-ring with clean engine coolant. - Install the coolant pump pulley and bolts.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Install new fuel injector O-rings.
- Separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
- Remove and discard the fuel injector O-rings.
- Install new O-rings and lubricate with clean engine oil.
- Install the fuel injectors onto the fuel rail.
NOTE: Use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. Use of ordinary O-rings can cause the fuel system to leak. Do not reuse the O-ring seals. - Install the fuel rail with the fuel injectors and stud bolts.
- Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Install the radio capacitor and the nut.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the fuel rail insulator.
- Attach the 2 wiring harness retainers to the valve cover and stud bolt.
- Connect the EGR valve electrical connector.
- Connect the CHT sensor and install the rubber boot.
- Connect the 4 coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Connect the 4 fuel injector electrical connectors, radio capacitor electrical connector and the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor electrical connector.
- Install the EGR tube.
- Tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
- Position the intake manifold and connect the PCV hose.
-
NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.NOTE: Inspect and install new intake manifold gaskets, if necessary.NOTE: The cylinder head side of the intake manifold is showing bolt location.
Install the intake manifold gasket, intake manifold and 7 bolts.
- Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in).
- Attach the 3 wire harness pin-type retainers to the intake manifold.
- Install the vacuum pump assembly, the nut and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Connect the vacuum hose to the intake manifold.
- Install the A/C compressor bracket and 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Connect the EGR coolant hose and the auxiliary coolant pump hose.
- Connect the auxiliary coolant pump hose and the upper radiator hose.
- Attach the 2 auxiliary coolant pump wiring retainers and the lower radiator hose retainer.
- Attach the 3 wire harness pin-type retainers.
- Connect the VCT electrical connector and attach the wiring harness retainer to the valve cover stud bolt.
- Install the A/C compressor and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
- Attach the pin-type retainer to the intake manifold and connect the KS electrical connector.
- Connect the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) switch electrical connector.
- Connect the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge valve electrical connector.
- Connect the electronic throttle control electrical connector.
- Install the accessory drive belt tensioner.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Attach the vehicle high voltage electrical system electrical connector retainer to the accessory drive belt tensioner.
- Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner counterclockwise and install the accessory drive belt.
- Install 7 new cylinder head studs in the cylinder head.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).
- Install the new catalytic converter manifold gasket on the engine.
- Position the catalytic converter manifold and tighten the 7 new nuts in the sequence shown in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
NOTE: Failure to tighten the catalytic converter nuts to specification before installing the converter bracket bolts will cause the converter to develop an exhaust leak.NOTE: Failure to tighten the catalytic converter nuts to specification a second time will cause the converter to develop an exhaust leak. - Install the 2 catalytic converter manifold bracket-to-engine block bolts.
- Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Install the catalytic converter manifold heat shield and the 6 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Attach the 2 engine wiring harness pin-type retainers.
- Install the engine wiring harness connector bracket.
- Tighten to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
- Connect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) electrical connector.
- Connect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) connector. Attach the connector to the engine wiring harness connector bracket.
- If equipped, connect the engine block heater.
- Using the Heavy Duty Floor Crane and the Spreader Bar, remove the engine from the engine stand.
- Install the flywheel and the bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in the following 3 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten to 112 Nm (83 lb-ft).
NOTE: Special bolts are used for installation. Do not use standard bolts.