Lower Engine Block (View 2)
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2010 Lincoln MKZ and 2010 Ford Fusion. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
ITEM DESCRIPTION TABLE
| Item | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 6150 | Piston compression upper ring (6 required) |
| 2 | 6152 | Piston compression lower ring (6 required) |
| 3 | 6159 | Piston oil control upper segment ring (6 required) |
| 4 | 6161 | Piston oil control spacer (6 required) |
| 5 | 6159 | Piston oil control lower segment ring (6 required) |
| 6 | 6140 | Piston pin retainer (12 required) |
| 7 | 6135 | Piston pin (6 required) |
| 8 | 6110 | Piston (6 required) |
| 9 | 6200 | Connecting rod (6 required) |
| 10 | 6211 | Connecting rod upper bearing (6 required) |
| 11 | 6211 | Connecting rod lower bearing (6 required) |
| 12 | 6210 | Connecting rod cap (6 required) |
| 13 | 6010 | Cylinder block |
| 14 | 6A341 | Crankshaft upper thrust washer (2 required) |
| 15 | 6333 | Cylinder block crankshaft main bearing (4 required) |
| 16 | 6303 | Crankshaft |
| 17 | 6K302 | Crankshaft lower thrust washer |
| 18 | 6333 | Lower crankshaft main bearings (4 required) |
| 19 | 6325 | Lower crankshaft main bearing caps (4 required) |
| 20 | 6C364 | Main bearing cap support brace |
NOTE:
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.
NOTE:
Early build vehicle (built before July 6, 2009) cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft® Premium Gold Engine Coolant. Late build vehicle (built on or after July 6, 2009) cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft® Specialty Green Engine Coolant. Mixing coolant types degrades the corrosion protection of the coolant. Do not mix coolant types. Failure to follow these instructions may result in engine or cooling system damage.
NOTE:
Early build engines have 11 fastener valve covers, late built engines have 9 fastener valve covers. Do not attempt to install bolts in the 2 empty late build valve cover holes or damage to the valve cover will occur.
NOTE:
On early build engines, the timing chain rides on the inner side of the RH timing chain guide. Late build engines are equipped with a different design RH timing chain guide that requires the timing chain to ride on the outer side of the RH timing chain guide. For service, all replacement RH timing chain guides will be the late build design.
NOTE:
Assembly of the engine requires various inspections/measurements of the engine components (engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and piston rings). These inspections/measurements will aid in determining if the engine components will require replacement. For additional information, refer to ENGINE SYSTEM - GENERAL INFORMATION
.
All vehicles
- Select the crankshaft main bearings for each crankshaft journal.
- Read the code on the crankshaft flange.
- Read the code on the cylinder block face.
- The first letter after the first asterisk makes up the code for main No. 1 and the next letter for main No. 2. The first letter after the second asterisk makes up the code for main No. 3 and the last letter for main No. 4.
NOTE: This procedure is for selecting bearings using a new crankshaft. - Using the table below, choose a bearing for each main. Match the block and crankshaft code with its corresponding column or row, by reading across the "crankshaft" row and down the "block" column.
- If the block code is *BM*QS* and the crankshaft code is *OL*PO*, Main No. 1 should be built with grade 1 bearings, as determined by the intersection of the B block column and the O crankshaft row on the table. Mains No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4 should all be grade 2.
- Using the original connecting rod cap bolts, install the connecting rod caps and bolts.NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.
- Tighten the bolts in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Measure the connecting rod large end bore in 2 directions.
- Remove the bolts and the rod cap.
- Discard the connecting rod cap bolts.
- Remove the bolts and the rod cap.
- Measure each of the crankshaft connecting rod bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions.
- Using the table below, select the correct connecting rod bearings for each crankshaft connecting rod journal.
- Lubricate the upper crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 4 crankshaft main bearings in the cylinder block.NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free of chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.
- Install the crankshaft onto the upper main bearings.NOTE: Do not install the upper thrust bearings until the crankshaft is installed.NOTE: Lubricate the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft with clean engine oil.
- Push the crankshaft rearward and install the rear crankshaft upper thrust washer at the back of the No. 4 rear bulkhead.NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.
- Push the crankshaft forward and install the front crankshaft upper thrust washer at the front of the No. 4 rear bulkhead.NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.
- Lubricate the crankshaft lower main bearings with clean engine oil and install them into the main bearing caps. Visually check seating and squareness of the bearings to make sure of proper seating in caps.
- Position the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 main bearing caps on the cylinder block and, keeping the caps as square as possible, alternately draw the caps down evenly using the new bolts until the main bearing caps are seated.
- Install the lower crankshaft thrust washer to the back side of the No. 4 rear main bearing cap, with the tab aligned with the cutout in the main bearing cap.NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.NOTE: To aid in assembly, apply petroleum jelly to the back of the crankshaft thrust washer.
- Position main bearing cap No. 4 on the cylinder block and keeping the cap as square as possible, alternately draw the cap down evenly using the new bolts until the main bearing cap is seated.
- Loosen the No. 4 main bearing cap bolts.
- Tighten the main bearing bolts in the sequence shown in illustration below in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 60 Nm (44 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 90 degrees.
NOTE: While tightening the main bearing vertical bolts, push the crankshaft forward and the No. 4 main bearing cap rearward to seat the crankshaft thrust washers. - Install the new 8 main bearing cap side bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 90 degrees.
- Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure crankshaft end play.
- Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block.
- Zero the Dial Indicator Gauge.
- Move the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block. Note and record the crankshaft end play.
- Prepare the connecting rod and cap.
- Insert the new bolts in the rod cap.
- Insert the upper and lower rod bearings into the rod and cap.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur. - Before installing the pistons into the cylinder block, verify proper ring gap location.
- Center line of the piston parallel to the wrist pin bore
- Upper compression ring gap location
- Upper oil control segment ring gap location
- Lower oil control segment ring gap location
- Expander ring and lower compression ring gap location
- Using the Piston Ring Compressor, install the piston and connecting rod assemblies.NOTE: Be sure not to scratch the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal with the connecting rod. Push the piston down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.NOTE: The next 3 steps are for all 6 connecting rods, rod caps and pistons. Only 1 connecting rod, rod cap and piston is shown in illustration.NOTE: Lubricate the pistons, piston rings, connecting rod bearings and the entire cylinder bores with clean engine oil.NOTE: Make sure the piston rings are positioned to specifications for installation. For additional information, refer to PISTON .NOTE: If the piston and or connecting rod are being installed new, the piston rod orientation marks and the arrow on the top of the dome of the piston should be facing toward the front of the engine block.NOTE: If the piston and connecting rod are to be reinstalled, they must be installed in the same orientation as disassembled.
- Seat the connecting rod on the crankshaft journal.
- Install the connecting rod cap and bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.NOTE: After installation of each piston, connecting rod, rod cap and bolts, rotate the crankshaft to verify smooth operation. - Repeat the previous 3 steps until all 6 piston, connecting rod and connecting rod cap assemblies are installed.
- Install the main bearing cap support brace and the new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 steps.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners an additional 180 degrees.
- Apply a 3 mm (0.11 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the crankshaft rear seal retainer.NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: The crankshaft rear seal retainer must be installed and the bolts tightened within 4 minutes of sealant application.
- Install the rear seal retainer and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the oil pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using a new O-ring seal, install the oil pump screen and pickup tube and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the A/C compressor and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE: The A/C compressor must be installed on the cylinder block and the 2 bolts tightened prior to installing the oil pan. - Apply a 3 mm (0.11 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the oil pan.
- Apply a 5.5 mm (0.21 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the 2 crankshaft seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block joint areas on the sealing surface of the oil pan.
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: The oil pan and the 4 specified bolts must be installed and the oil pan aligned to the cylinder block and A/C compressor within 4 minutes of sealant application. Final tightening of the oil pan bolts must be carried out within 60 minutes of sealant application. - Install the oil pan and bolts 10, 11, 13 and 14.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in illustration below to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
- Loosen the bolts 180 degrees.
NOTE: The oil pan and the 4 specified bolts must be installed within 4 minutes of the start of sealant application. - Align the oil pan to the cylinder block and A/C compressor.
- Position the oil pan so the mounting boss is against the A/C compressor and using a straightedge, align the oil pan flush with the rear of the cylinder block at the 2 areas shown in illustration below.
- Tighten bolts 10, 11, 13 and 14 in the sequence shown in illustration below, to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
- Install the remaining oil pan bolts. Tighten all the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Tighten the large bolts (1-14) to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Tighten the small bolts (15 and 16) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the A/C compressor mounting stud and nut.
- Tighten the stud to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) and the nut to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the coolant pump and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the Knock Sensor (KS) and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Using new O-ring seals, install the coolant inlet tube.NOTE: Apply clean engine coolant to the O-ring seals prior to installation.
- Install a new gasket, the RH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Install the new M6 bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install a new gasket, the LH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Install the new M6 bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Position the crankshaft dowel pin in the 9 o'clock position.NOTE: The crankshaft must remain in the freewheeling position (crankshaft dowel pin at 9 o'clock) until after the camshafts are installed and the valve clearance is checked/adjusted. Do not turn the crankshaft until instructed to do so. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage.
- Install the valve tappets.NOTE: The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions.NOTE: Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.NOTE: LH shown in illustration, RH similar.
- Position the camshafts onto the RH cylinder head in the neutral position as shown in illustration.NOTE: The camshafts must remain in the neutral position during installation or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Coat the camshafts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
- Install the 8 camshaft caps and the 16 bolts.NOTE: Cylinder head camshaft bearing caps are numbered to verify that they are assembled in their original positions.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Position the camshafts onto the LH cylinder head in the neutral position as shown in illustration.NOTE: The camshafts must remain in the neutral position during installation or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Coat the camshafts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
- Install the 8 camshaft caps and the 16 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: Cylinder head camshaft bearing caps are numbered to verify that they are assembled in their original positions. - Using a feeler gauge, confirm that the valve tappet clearances are within specification. If valve tappet clearances are not within specification, the clearance must be adjusted by installing new valve tappet(s) of the correct size. For additional information, refer to VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK .NOTE: If any components are installed new, the engine valve clearance must be checked/adjusted or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.
Engines equipped with early build RH timing chain guides
- Install the RH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Engines equipped with late build/replacement RH timing chain guides
- Install the RH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All vehicles
- Install the RH secondary timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Rotate the RH camshafts to the Top Dead Center (TDC) position and install the Camshaft Holding Tool on the flats of the camshafts.NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.
- Assemble the RH Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) assembly, the RH exhaust camshaft sprocket and the RH secondary timing chain.
- Align the colored links with the timing marks.
- Position the RH secondary timing assembly onto the camshafts.
- Install 2 new bolts and the original washer. Tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Remove the lockpin from the RH secondary timing chain tensioner.
- Install the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Rotate the LH camshafts to the Top Dead Center (TDC) position and install the Camshaft Holding Tool on the flats of the camshafts.NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.
- Assemble the LH VCT
assembly, the LH exhaust camshaft sprocket and the LH secondary timing chain.
- Align the colored links with the timing marks.
- Position the LH secondary timing assembly onto the camshafts.
- Install 2 new bolts and the original washer. Tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Remove the lockpin from the LH secondary timing chain tensioner.
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 60 degrees to the TDC position (crankshaft dowel pin at 11 o'clock).
- Install the crankshaft timing chain sprocket.
- Install the primary timing chain with the colored links aligned with the timing marks on the VCT assemblies and the crankshaft sprocket.
- Install the upper LH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the lower LH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the primary timing chain tensioner arm.
- Reset the primary timing chain tensioner.
- Rotate the lever counterclockwise.
- Using a soft-jawed vise, compress the plunger.
- Align the hole in the lever with the hole in the tensioner housing.
- Install a suitable lockpin.
- Install the primary tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Remove the lockpin.
NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the crankshaft slightly to remove slack from the timing chain and install the tensioner. - As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.
- Inspect the VCT housing seals for damage and replace as necessary.
- Install the LH VCT
housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: Make sure the dowels on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) housing are fully engaged in the cylinder head prior to tightening the bolts. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage. - Install the RH VCT
housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: Make sure the dowels on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) housing are fully engaged in the cylinder head prior to tightening the bolts. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage. - Install the Alignment Pins.
- Apply a 3.0 mm (0.11 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover sealing surfaces including the 3 engine mount bracket bosses.
- Apply a 5.5 mm (0.21 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the oil pan-to-cylinder block joint and the cylinder head-to-cylinder block joint areas of the engine front cover in 5 places as indicated.
NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: The engine front cover and bolts 17, 18, 19 and 20 must be installed within 4 minutes of the initial sealant application. The remainder of the engine front cover bolts and the engine mount bracket bolts must be installed and tightened within 35 minutes of the initial sealant application. If the time limits are exceeded, the sealant must be removed, the sealing area cleaned and sealant reapplied. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage. - Install the engine front cover and bolts 17, 18, 19 and 20.
- Tighten in sequence to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
NOTE: Make sure the 2 locating dowel pins are seated correctly in the cylinder block. - Remove the Alignment Pins.
- Install the engine mount bracket and the 3 bolts.NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
- Install the remaining engine front cover bolts. Tighten all of the engine front cover bolts and engine mount bracket bolts in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten bolts 1 thru 22 to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) and bolts 23, 24 and 25 to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten bolts 1 thru 22 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft) and bolts 23, 24 and 25 to 75 Nm (55 lb-ft).
NOTE: Do not expose the Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to engine oil for at least 90 minutes after installing the engine front cover. Failure to follow this instruction may cause oil leakage. - Install the engine mount studs in the following sequence.
- Clean the front cover engine mount stud holes with pressurized air to remove any foreign material.
- Clean all the thread sealer from the engine mount studs (old and new studs).
- Apply new Threadlock and Sealer to the engine mount stud threads.
- Install the 2 engine mount studs.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
NOTE: The thread sealer on the engine mount studs (including new engine mount studs if applicable) must be cleaned off with a wire brush and new Threadlock and Sealer applied prior to installing the engine mount studs. Failure to follow this procedure may result in damage to the engine mount studs or engine. - Install the engine mount bracket and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Using the Front Crankshaft Seal Installer and Crankshaft Vibration Damper Installer, install a new crankshaft front seal.NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the crankshaft front seal bore in the engine front cover.
- Using the Front Cover Oil Seal Installer and Crankshaft Vibration Damper Installer, install the crankshaft pulley.NOTE: Lubricate the outside diameter sealing surfaces with clean engine oil.
- Using the Strap Wrench, install the crankshaft pulley washer and new bolt and tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 120 Nm (89 (lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Using the VCT
Spark Plug Tube Seal Installer and Handle, install new VCT
solenoid and/or spark plug tube seals.NOTE: Installation of new seals is only required if damaged seals were removed during disassembly of the engine.NOTE: Spark plug tube seal installation shown in illustration, VCT solenoid seal installation similar.
- Apply an 8 mm (0.31 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover-to-RH cylinder head joints.NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: If the valve cover is not installed and the fasteners tightened within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
Early build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the RH valve cover, bolt and the 10 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Late build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the RH valve cover and tighten the 9 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All vehicles
- Apply an 8 mm (0.31 in) bead of Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover-to-LH cylinder head joints.NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: If the valve cover is not installed and the fasteners tightened within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Early build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the LH valve cover and 11 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Late build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the LH valve cover and tighten the 9 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All vehicles
- Install the wiring harness retaining bracket and the 2 nuts.
- Tighten to 4 Nm (35 lb-in).
- Install the 6 coil-on-plug assemblies and the 6 bolts.
- Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
NOTE: LH shown in illustration, RH similar.Late build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the oil filter adapter and 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Early build vehicles
- Using a new gasket and O-ring seal, install the oil filter adapter and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten the large bolt to 57 Nm (42 lb-ft).
- Tighten the small bolt to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All vehicles
- Install the EOP
switch.NOTE: Apply thread sealant with PTFE to the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) switch threads.
- Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in).
- Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and install the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install LH Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install and connect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor jumper harness.
- Using new gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts.NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the thermostat housing and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install new fuel injector O-ring seals.
- Remove the retaining clips and separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
- Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
- Install new O-ring seals and lubricate with clean engine oil.
- Install the fuel injectors and the retaining clips onto the fuel rail.
NOTE: Use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. The use of ordinary O-rings may cause the fuel system to leak. Do not reuse the O-ring seals.NOTE: The upper and lower O-ring seals are not interchangeable. - Install the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly and install the 4 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles
- Install the catalytic converter bracket and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
All vehicles
- Install the RH CMP
sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the engine lifting eye and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the cover and the pin-type retainer.
- Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
- Install the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Install 6 new RH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the RH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration below:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak.Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter and the 4 new nuts.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
All vehicles
- Install 6 new LH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the LH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration below:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
NOTE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak. - Install the LH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and the 4 new nuts (3 shown in illustration).
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).
- Install the power steering pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) tube bracket and bolt to the RH cylinder head.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the PSP
hose bracket nut.
- Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in).
- Attach the PSP hose retainer to the engine lifting eye.
- Install the generator, the nut and the bolt.
- Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Using new O-ring seals, install the A/C manifold and the bolt.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Position the wiring harness onto the engine.
- Connect the EOP switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
- Attach the wiring harness retainer to the generator.
- Connect the generator electrical connector.
- Connect the generator B+ cable and install the nut.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
- Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
- Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector.
- Install the wiring harness grommet.
- Install the wiring harness retainer stud bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the heat shield, the nut and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the wiring harness retainer bolt on the rear of the LH cylinder head.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Attach all of the wiring harness retainers to the LH valve cover and stud bolts.
- Connect the LH camshaft VCT solenoid electrical connector.
- Connect the 3 LH coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Connect the LH HO2S electrical connector.
- Connect the LH Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) electrical connector.
- Connect the LH CMP sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the CHT sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors (3 shown in illustration).
- Connect the KS electrical connector.
- Connect the RH CMP sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the coolant bypass hose to the thermostat housing.
- Attach all of the wiring harness retainers to the RH valve cover and stud bolts.
- Connect the 3 RH coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Connect the RH VCT
solenoid electrical connector.
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
FWD vehicles
- Connect the RH CMS
electrical connector.
All vehicles
- Connect the PSP switch electrical connector.
- Using new gaskets, install the upper intake manifold and the 6 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration below to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage. - Install the upper intake manifold support bracket and the 2 bolts (one shown in illustration).
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the RH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Connect the RH HO2S electrical connector.
- Attach the wiring harness retainers to the upper intake manifold.
- Connect the Throttle Body (TB) electrical connector.
- Connect the PCV hose to the PCV valve.
- If equipped, position the block heater wiring harness onto the engine.
- Attach the block heater wiring harness retainer to the power steering reservoir hose and the PSP hose.
- If equipped, connect the block heater electrical connector and install the heat shield.
- If equipped, attach the block heater wiring harness retainer to the upper intake manifold.
- Install the Engine Lift Eye on the LH cylinder head.
- Using the Heavy Duty Floor Crane and Spreader Bar, remove the engine from the stand.
- Position the Rear Main Seal Installer onto the end of the crankshaft and slide a new crankshaft rear seal onto the tool.NOTE: Lubricate the seal lips and bore with clean engine oil prior to installation.
- Using the Rear Main Seal Installer and Handle, install the new crankshaft rear seal.
- Install the crankshaft sensor ring.
- Install the flexplate and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).