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Home >> Ford >> 2000 >> Contour SE, 2.5 L, Standard >> Repair and Diagnosis >> External Pages >> Different car >> Section 1626 (Noise, Vibration & Harshness) >> Diagnosis And Testing >> Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) >> Symptom Tables

Symptom Tables

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2006 Mercury Montego, 2006 Ford Freestyle, and 2006 Ford Five Hundred. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
SYMPTOM TABLE - AIR LEAK AND WIND NOISE

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Air leak around door perimeter
  • Loose fit seal.
  • PINCH the seal carrier to improve retention on the seal flange.
  • Seal installed incorrectly.
  • REINSTALL the seal.
  • Door misaligned.
  • REALIGN the door. CHECK door gaps and fit in the door opening and ADJUST as necessary.
  • Scuff plate installed incorrectly.
  • REINSTALL the scuff plate.
  • Seal or seal push pins damaged.
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Air leak around glass run
  • Door glass misaligned.
  • ADJUST the door glass.
  • Glass run installed incorrectly.
  • ADJUST the glass run. INSERT foam in the glass run carrier.
  • Leak path behind glass run.
  • INSTALL foam rope behind the glass run.
  • Glass run channel spread wide.
  • PINCH the glass run channel to reduce the size of the opening.
  • Blow-out clip bent or contacting door glass.
  • ADJUST the blow-out clip or INSTALL a new glass run/blow-out clip molding assembly.
  • Glass run damaged.
  • INSTALL a new glass run.
  • Air leak at inner belt line
  • Belt line seal installed incorrectly on flange.
  • ADJUST the seal. (Do not bend the flange.)
  • Belt line seal integrated with door trim installed incorrectly (no glass contact).
  • REINSTALL the door trim.
  • No contact with side glass.
  • ADJUST the door glass.
  • No contact with glass runs at both ends of belt line seal.
  • ADJUST the belt line seal or ADD foam at the seal ends.
  • Belt line seal damaged.
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Air leak at outer belt line
  • Belt line seal installed incorrectly on flange (no glass contact).
  • ADJUST the seal.
  • Belt line seal does not contact the glass.
  • ADJUST the door glass.
  • No contact with glass runs at both ends of belt line seal.
  • ADJUST the belt line seal/ADD foam at the seal ends.
  • Belt line seal damaged.
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Draft at inner door handle/speaker opening
  • Hole in watershield.
  • SEAL the hole with a suitable tape.
  • Watershield misaligned.
  • REALIGN the watershield. INSTALL a new watershield if the pressure sensitive adhesive fails.
  • Exterior door handle seal misaligned/damaged.
  • REALIGN or INSTALL a new seal as necessary.
  • Wind noise from side view mirror
  • Outside mirror housing misaligned.
  • REALIGN with the edges shingled correctly and no gaps.
  • Mirror sail gasket folded/misaligned.
  • REINSTALL with the gasket unfolded and aligned correctly.
  • Mirror housing trim cap installed incorrectly.
  • REINSTALL with the edges shingled to the air flow.
  • Air leak through mirror housing hinge.
  • Fully ENGAGE the mirror into its operating position/USE foam to block the air path through the hinge.
  • Inner sail trim installed incorrectly.
  • REINSTALL the sail trim/ADJUST the door trim.
  • Inner sail gasket/barrier installed incorrectly.
  • REINSTALL the trim cover with the gasket/barrier aligned correctly.
  • Air path through wiring bundle/fastener access holes.
  • BLOCK the air path(s) with foam/tape.
  • Exposed fastener access hole on mirror housing/sail.
  • INSTALL a new cap if it is missing.
  • Air leak around perimeter of fixed glass
  • Gaps in the sealant bead.
  • APPLY approved sealant.
  • Air traveling up windshield molding along A-pillar.
  • INSTALL foam rope the full length of the A-pillar.
  • Windshield/backlite misaligned or not installed correctly.
  • REINSTALL the windshield/backlite.
  • Rear hood seal at base of windshield misaligned/damaged.
  • REALIGN or INSTALL a new seal as necessary.
  • Air leak at cowl
  • Cowl gasket misaligned/damaged.
  • REALIGN or INSTALL a new seal as necessary.
  • Air leak around liftgate perimeter
  • Loose fit seal.
  • PINCH the seal carrier to improve retention on the seal flange or INSERT foam in the carrier.
  • Seal misaligned.
  • REINSTALL the seal.
  • Liftgate misaligned.
  • REALIGN the liftgate. CHECK the liftgate fit in the body opening and ADJUST as necessary.
  • Scuff plate misaligned.
  • REINSTALL the scuff plate.
  • Seal or seal push pins damaged.
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Air leak around the liftgate flip window perimeter
  • Loose fit seal.
  • PINCH the seal carrier to improve the retention to the seal flange.
  • Seal misaligned.
  • REINSTALL the seal.
  • Glass misaligned.
  • REALIGN the glass.
  • Seal damaged.
  • INSTALL a new seal.
  • Wind noise from antenna
  • Shape of antenna.
  • INSTALL an antenna boot or a spiral antenna.
  • Air leak around antenna cable access hole.
  • INSPECT the antenna access hole grommet. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Air leak from closed roof opening panel
  • Seal installed incorrectly.
  • REINSTALL the seal.
  • Roof opening panel glass/door misaligned.
  • REALIGN the roof opening panel glass/door.
  • Roof opening panel damaged.
  • INSTALL a new roof opening panel.
  • Buffeting from an open roof opening panel
  • Wind deflector inoperative/damaged.
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new wind deflector as necessary.
  • Wind deflector height incorrect.
  • ADJUST the wind deflector higher.
  • Wind noise created by airflow over or behind body panels
  • Fender splash shield misaligned.
  • REALIGN the fender splash shield.
  • Body panel misaligned (exposed edge).
  • REALIGN the appropriate body panel.
  • Hood misaligned (front margin).
  • CHECK hood gaps and fit. ADJUST the hood as necessary.
  • Front grille edge noise.
  • APPLY foam in the hollow areas behind the louvers.
  • Wind noise created by grille opening panel
  • Grille relationship to leading edge on hood.
  • ADJUST the grille opening panel forward to eliminate wind noise.
  • Sharp edges due to material imperfections.
  • REMOVE the sharp edges (no damage to visible surface).
  • Noise from roof rack
  • Roof rack rails or crossbars loose.
  • TIGHTEN the fasteners.
  • Roof rack fasteners missing.
  • INSTALL the approved fasteners.
  • Roof rack crossbars installed backward.
  • REINSTALL the crossbars.
  • Roof rack rub strips partially lifting from roof.
  • REAPPLY adhesive or fasteners or INSTALL new rub strips as necessary.
  • Roof rack gaskets loose or misaligned.
  • REINSTALL the gasket.
  • Wind noise from bug shield/exterior windshield sun visor
  • Turbulence created by location and shape.
  • REMOVE per customer direction if it is a dealer installed option.
  • Rattling noise
  • Caliper mounting bolts loose.
  • Damaged or worn caliper pins or retainers.
  • CHECK the caliper pins and retainers for lubrication and correct fit. LUBRICATE or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT DISC BRAKE for the front disc brakes or REAR DISC BRAKE for rear disc brakes.
  • Missing or damaged anti-rattle clips or springs.
  • CHECK the brake pads for missing clips or broken springs. INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to INSTALLATION for the front disc brakes or INSTALLATION for rear disc brakes.
  • Loose brake disc shield.
  • Clicking noise - with brakes applied with ABS brakes
  • ABS hydraulic control unit.
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Squealing noise - occurs on first (morning) brake application
  • Disc brake pads.
  • Acceptable condition. Caused by humidity and low disc brake pad temperature.
  • Squealing noise - a continuous squeal
  • Disc brake pads or linings worn below minimum thickness.
  • Squealing noise - an intermittent squeal brought on by cold, heat, water, mud or snow
  • Disc brake pad.
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Groaning noise - occurs at low speeds with brake lightly applied (creeping)
  • Disc brake pads.
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Grinding noise - continuous
  • Disc brake pads or linings worn below minimum thickness.
  • INSPECT the disc brake pads, brake discs/drums and attaching hardware for damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to BRAKE PADS for front disc brakes or BRAKE PADS for rear disc brakes.
  • Moaning noise
  • Brake linings contaminated with grease or oil.
  • INSPECT the brake pads and shoes for contamination. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
  • Brake vibration/shudder - occurs when brakes are applied
  • Uneven disc or drum wear.
  • Uneven disc brake pad or lining transfer.
  • Suspension components.
  • Brake vibration/shudder - occurs when the brake pedal is released
  • Brake drag.
  • INSPECT the disc brake pads or linings for premature wear. REPAIR or INSTALL a new caliper or wheel cylinder as necessary. REFER to BRAKE PADS for front disc brakes or BRAKE PADS for the rear disc brakes.
SYMPTOM TABLE - DRIVELINE NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Driveline clunk - during acceleration or from cruise to coast/deceleration
  • Damaged or worn inboard constant velocity (CV) joint.
  • INSPECT the inboard CV joint and boot. REPAIR or INSTALL a new CV joint as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS .
  • Clicking, popping or grinding - occurs while vehicle is turning
  • Inadequate or contaminated lubrication in the (CV) joints.
  • CHECK the CV boots and joints for wear or damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS .
  • Another component contacting the halfshaft.
  • CHECK the halfshafts and the area around the halfshafts. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS .
  • Brake components.
  • INSPECT the front brakes for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT DISC BRAKE .
  • Steering components.
  • INSPECT the drag link, inner and outer tie-rods or idler arm for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING .
  • Suspension components.
  • INSPECT the upper and lower ball joints for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION .
  • Damaged or worn wheel bearings.
  • CHECK for abnormal wheel bearing play or roughness. Refer to WHEEL BEARING CHECK . ADJUST or INSTALL new wheel bearings as necessary.
  • Clicking or snapping - occurs when accelerating around a corner
  • Damaged or worn outboard CV joint.
  • INSPECT the outboard CV joint and boot. REPAIR or INSTALL a new CV joint as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS .
  • Buzz - buzzing noise is the same at cruise or coast/deceleration
  • Damaged or worn tires.
  • CHECK for abnormal tire wear or damage. INSTALL new tire(s) as necessary. REFER to INSTALLATION .
  • Driveline shudder - occurs during acceleration from a slow speed or stop
  • Incorrect or high CV joint operating angle.
  • CHECK vehicle ride height is within limits. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to RIDE HEIGHT .
  • Damaged or worn front suspension components.
  • CHECK for a loose stabilizer bar, damaged or loose strut/strut bushings or loose or worn ball joints. INSPECT the steering linkage for wear or damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
  • Driveline vibration - occurs at cruising speeds
  • Incorrect lateral and radial tire/wheel runout.
  • INSPECT the tire and wheels. MEASURE tire runouts. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to TIRE RUNOUT .
  • Incorrectly seated CV joint in the front wheel hub.
  • CHECK the outer CV joint for correct seating into the hub. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS .
SYMPTOM TABLE - ENGINE NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Grinding noise - occurs during engine cranking
  • Incorrect starter motor mounting.
  • Starter motor.
  • Incorrect starter motor drive engagement.
  • Engine ticking noise
  • Fuel injector.
  • Fuel line.
  • Oil pump.
  • Valve lifter.
  • Belt tensioner.
  • Coolant pump.
  • Obstruction of cooling fan.
  • Engine drumming noise - normally accompanied by vibration
  • Powertrain mount.
  • Damaged or misaligned exhaust system.
  • Whistling noise - normally accompanied with poor idle condition
  • Air intake system.
  • Clunking noise
  • Coolant pump has excessive end play or imbalance.
  • CHECK the coolant pump for excessive end play. INSPECT the coolant pump with the drive belt off for imbalance. INSTALL a new coolant pump as necessary. REFER to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
  • Generator has excessive end play.
  • Pinging noise
  • Exhaust system leak.
  • Gasoline octane too low.
  • VERIFY with customer the type of gasoline used. CORRECT as necessary.
  • Incorrect spark timing.
  • CHECK the spark timing. REPAIR as necessary.
  • High operating temperature.
  • INSPECT cooling system for leaks. CHECK the coolant level. REFILL as necessary. CHECK the coolant for the correct mix ratio. DRAIN and REFILL as needed. CHECK engine operating temperature is within specifications. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Foul-out spark plug.
  • CHECK the spark plugs. REPAIR or INSTALL new spark plugs as necessary.
  • Catalytic converter.
  • Acceptable noise.
  • Knocking noise - light knocking noise, also described as piston slap. Noise is most noticeable when engine is cold with light to medium acceleration. Noise disappears as engine warms
  • Excessive clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall.
  • Engine cold and at high idle. Using an EngineEAR, pull a spark plug or fuel injector connector until the noise goes away. CARRY OUT a cylinder bore clearance to piston check. INSTALL a new piston. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Knocking noise - light double knock or sharp rap sound. Occurs mostly with warm engine at idle or low speeds in DRIVE. Increases in relation to engine load. Associated with poor lubrication history
  • Excessive clearance between the piston and the piston pin.
  • INSTALL a new piston or piston pin. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Knocking noise - light knocking noise is most noticeable when engine is warm. Noise tends to decrease when vehicle is coasting or in NEUTRAL
  • Excessive clearance between the connecting rod bearings and the crankshaft.
  • Engine warm and at idle. Using an EngineEAR, PULL a spark plug or fuel injector connector until the noise goes away. INSTALL new bearings. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Knocking - deep knocking noise. Noise is most noticeable when engine is warm, at lower rpm and under a light load and then at float
  • Worn or damaged crankshaft main bearings.
  • CARRY OUT Drive Engine Run-Up (DERU) Test. CHECK for noise with vehicle at operating temperature, during medium to heavy acceleration. CHECK at idle with injector disconnected, noise does not change. INSTALL new main bearings. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Knocking noise - occurs mostly with warm engine at light/medium acceleration
  • Spark plugs.
  • CHECK the spark plugs for damage or wear. INSTALL new spark plugs as necessary.
  • Carbon accumulation in combustion chamber.
  • REMOVE carbon from combustion chamber.
  • Whine or moaning noise
  • Air intake system.
  • Generator electrical field or bearings.
  • Drone type noise
  • Exhaust system.
  • A/C compressor.
  • CHECK for noise with vehicle at constant speeds. CYCLE the compressor on and off and listen for a change in pitch. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) COMPRESSOR .
  • Powertrain mounts.
  • Sputter type noise - noise worse when cold, lessens or disappears when vehicle is at operating temperature
  • Damaged or worn exhaust system components.
  • INSPECT the exhaust system for leaks or damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM .
  • Rattling noise - noise from the upper engine (valve train). Worse when engine is cold
  • Low oil level.
  • CHECK oil level. FILL as necessary.
  • Thin or diluted oil.
  • INSPECT the oil for contamination. If oil is contaminated, CHECK for the source. REPAIR as necessary. CHANGE the oil and filter.
  • Low oil pressure.
  • Worn rocker arms/fulcrums or followers.
  • CARRY OUT a valve train analysis. INSTALL new valve train components as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Worn valve guides.
  • CARRY OUT a valve train analysis. INSTALL new valve guides as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Excessive runout of valve seats on the valve face.
  • CARRY OUT a valve seat runout test. INSPECT the valve face and seat. INSTALL new valves as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Rattling noise - from the bottom of the vehicle
  • Loose muffler shields or catalytic converter shields.
  • CHECK the exhaust system for loose exhaust shields. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Thumping noise - from the bottom of the vehicle, worse at acceleration
  • Exhaust pipe/muffler grounded to chassis.
  • CHECK the exhaust system to chassis clearance. CHECK the exhaust system hangers for damage. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
  • Whoosh - occurs during light vehicle acceleration. Heard inside the vehicle
  • Throttling late, creating turbulence transmitted through the plastic manifold.
  • CHECK for leaks or missing seal in the dash panel.
  • Engine vibration - is felt with increases and decreases in engine rpm
  • Strain on exhaust mounts.
  • Damaged or worn powertrain/drivetrain mounts.
  • CHECK the powertrain/drivetrain mounts for damage. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Engine or transmission grounded to chassis.
  • INSPECT the powertrain/drivetrain for correct clearances. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Engine vibration - vibration felt at all times
  • Excessive engine pulley runout.
  • CARRY OUT Engine Accessory Test. INSTALL a new engine pulley as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Damaged or worn accessory component.
  • CARRY OUT Engine Accessory Test. REPAIR or INSTALL a new component as necessary.
  • Accelerator pedal vibration - felt through the pedal as a buzz
  • Throttle cable loose or misrouted.
  • Engine vibration - mostly at COAST/NEUTRAL coast. Condition improves with vehicle accelerating
  • Combustion instability.
  • CHECK the ignition system. INSTALL new components as necessary.
  • Engine vibration or shudder - occurs with light to medium acceleration above 56 km/h (35 mph)
  • Worn or damaged spark plugs.
  • INSPECT the spark plugs for cracks, high resistance or broken insulator. INSTALL a new spark plug(s) as necessary.
  • Plugged fuel injector.
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new injector as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Damaged spark plug wire.
  • INSPECT the spark plug wires for damage. INSTALL a new spark plug wire(s) as necessary.
  • Contaminated fuel.
  • INSPECT the fuel for contamination. DRAIN the fuel system and refill.
  • Worn or damaged torque converter.
  • CHECK the torque converter. INSTALL a new torque converter as necessary. REFER to TORQUE CONVERTER .
SYMPTOM TABLE - IDLE NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Idle air control (IAC) valve moan - occurs on throttle tip-out
  • IAC valve is contaminated with oil.
  • Accessory drive belt chirp - occurs at idle or high idle, cold or hot. Most common occurrence is during humid weather
  • Accessory drive belt worn, or pulley is misaligned or loose.
  • INSPECT for loose or misaligned pulleys. CHECK the drive belt for wear or damage. INSTALL new pulley(s) or drive belt, as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
  • Accessory drive bearing hoot - occurs at idle or high idle in cold temperatures of approximately +4°C (+40°F) or colder at first start of the day
  • Accessory drive idler or tensioner pulley bearing is experiencing stick/slip between ball bearings and bearing race.
  • Power steering moan - occurs at high idle and possibly at idle during the first cold start of the day in temperatures of approximately -18°C (0°F) or colder. Noise can even be a severe screech for less than one minute in very cold temperatures of approximately -29°C (-20°F) or colder
  • High fluid viscosity, or plugged reservoir screen in power steering reservoir starves pump causing cavitation.
  • Generator whine - during high electrical loads at idle or high idle, a high pitched whine or moan is emitted from the generator
  • Generator electrical field noise.
  • Using an EngineEAR, PROBE near the generator housing. LISTEN for changes in the noise level while changing electrical loads (such as rear defrost, headlamps, etc.). CARRY OUT a generator load test. If the system passes the load test, the noise is from the generator bearings, INSTALL new bearings. If the system fails the load test, INSTALL a new generator. REFER to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
  • Engine-driven cooling fan moan - occurs during the first start of the day. It is most objectionable near idle speeds up to 2000 rpm. The noise increases with rpm
  • The viscous cooling fan clutch engages until the fluid in the clutch reaches normal operating temperature, causing the fan to fully engage.
  • Engine cooling fan boom/rough engine idle sensation - occurs during idle when the engine cooling fan is in HIGH mode. Condition will only occur with A/C system ON and in ambient temperatures equal to or greater than 80°F (27°C). Vibration felt through steering wheel
  • Out-of-balance engine cooling fan.
  • TURN the A/C system ON, disconnect the ECT electrical connector. This will force the PCM to turn the cooling fans to HIGH SPEED operating mode. If engine boom, rough idle sensation or engine noise is experienced, determine if either the RH, LH or both engine cooling fans have an abnormally high shaking force. This is done by placing one's hand at each of the fan assembly's exterior shrouds and in the area where the fan assemblies mount to the radiator support. INSTALL a new RH, LH or both engine cooling fans. REFER to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION . RECONNECT the sensor and CLEAR the pending DTC Code P0118 ECT Hi Input.
  • Drumming noise - occurs inside the vehicle during idle or high idle, hot or cold. Very low-frequency drumming is very rpm dependent
  • Exhaust system vibration excites the body resonances inducing interior noise.
  • Engine vibration excites the body resonances inducing interior noise.
  • Hissing noise - occurs during idle or high idle that is apparent with the hood open
  • Vacuum leak or IAC valve flow noise.
  • Use the Ultrasonic Leak Detector/EngineEAR to locate the source. Scan the air intake system from the inlet to each cylinder intake port. DISCARD the leaking parts, and INSTALL a new component.
  • Vehicles with a plastic intake manifold.
  • Acceptable condition. Some plastic manifolds exhibit this noise, which is the effect of the plastic manifold.
  • Automatic transmission buzz or hiss
  • Worn or damaged main control solenoids or valves.
  • Using a transmission tester, activate the solenoids to duplicate sound. INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE - 6 SPEED .
  • Heating, vacuum and air conditioning (HVAC) system chirp - most audible inside the vehicle. Listen for a change in noise pitch or loudness while changing the HVAC system blower speed
  • Damaged or worn HVAC blower bearing.
  • Air conditioning (A/C) clutch ticking - occurs when the compressor clutch engages
  • Acceptable noise.
  • Incorrect air gap.
  • LISTEN to the clutch to determine if the noise occurs with clutch engagement. A small amount of noise is acceptable. If the noise is excessive, CHECK the A/C clutch air gap. INSPECT the A/C clutch for wear or damage. INSTALL a new clutch as necessary. REFER to CLIMATE CONTROL .
  • Intermittent rattle, or scraping/rubbing noise
  • Loose exhaust heat shield(s).
  • INSPECT the exhaust system for loose parts using a glove or clamps to verify cause. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to EXHAUST SYSTEM .
  • Wiring, hose or other part interfering with accessory drive belt or pulley.
  • INSPECT accessory drive system closely verifying there is adequate clearance to all rotating components. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Engine ticking or knocking noise - occurs during idle or high idle during the first cold start of the day
  • Piston noise or valvetrain noise (bled down lifter/lash adjuster).
  • A continuous, speed-dependent rattle from the engine - occurs during idle or high idle during the first cold start of the day and disappears as the engine warms up
  • Piston noise or valvetrain noise (bled down lifter/lash adjuster).
  • Idle vibration - a low-frequency vibration (5-20 Hz) or mild shake that is felt through the seat/floorpan
  • Cylinder misfire.
  • Idle vibration - a high-frequency vibration (20-80 Hz) or buzz, that is felt through the steering wheel or seat
  • Exhaust system mounts bound up.
  • VERIFY concern occurs at engine firing frequency. CHECK that the exhaust system vibrates at the same frequency as the engine. ADD 9-14 km (20-30 lb.) to the tail pipe to test, CARRY OUT EXHAUST SYSTEM NEUTRALIZING .
  • Body mounts loose.
  • INSPECT the body mounts. CARRY OUT a Neutral Engine Run-Up (NERU) Test. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Power steering lines grounded out.
  • INSPECT that the power steering lines are not contacting the chassis or each other. REPAIR as necessary.
SYMPTOM TABLE - SQUEAK AND RATTLE

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Squeak - heard inside the vehicle when closing/opening the door
  • Insufficient lubrication on the door hinge or check strap.
  • LUBRICATE the hinge or check strap.
  • Internal door components loose, rubbing or misaligned.
  • CHECK the inside of the door. TIGHTEN or ALIGN as necessary. USE the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit to isolate any rubbing components.
  • Squeak - heard inside the vehicle when closing/opening the window
  • Worn or damaged glass run/channel.
  • Squeak - heard outside of vehicle when closing/opening the door
  • Exhaust shield rubbing against the chassis or exhaust pipe.
  • CHECK the exhaust system. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Squeak - occurs with initial brake pedal application
  • Disc brake pads.
  • Under certain conditions, asbestos free pads can generate a squeak noise. This noise is normal and does not indicate a concern.
  • Squeak - a constant noise that occurs with brake pedal applications
  • Damaged or worn disc brake pads.
  • INSPECT the pads for oil, grease or brake fluid contamination. CHECK for glazed linings. A brake disc with hard spots will also cause a squeak type noise. REPAIR or INSTALL new pads as necessary. REFER to FRONT DISC BRAKE .
  • Squeak - noise occurs over bumps or when turning
  • Worn control arm bushings.
  • INSPECT the control arm bushings. Spray with lubricant and CARRY OUT a "bounce test" to determine which bushing. REPAIR as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION .
  • Worn or damaged shock absorber/strut.
  • INSPECT the shock absorber for damage. CARRY OUT a "bounce test" to isolate the noise. INSTALL a new shock absorber/strut as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION for the front shock absorber/strut or REAR SUSPENSION for the rear shock absorber/strut.
  • Rattle - heard when closing/opening the door or window
  • Loose internal door mechanism, bracket or attachment.
  • REPEAT the motion or CARRY OUT a "tap test" to duplicate the noise. INSPECT the door for loose components. TIGHTEN loose components or USE the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit to isolate any rattling components.
  • Squeak or rattle - heard inside the vehicle over rough roads/bumps
  • Misaligned glove compartment door/hinge.
  • ALIGN the glove compartment door.
  • Instrument panel trim loose or misaligned.
  • INSPECT the instrument panel trim for missing or loose clips or screws. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Loose interior component or trim.
  • CARRY OUT a "touch test". ELIMINATE the noise by pressing or pulling on interior trim and components. USE the Rotunda Squeak and Rattle Kit to isolate any rattling/squeaking components.
  • Squeak or rattle - noise with a vibration concern
  • Damaged or worn body mounts.
  • INSPECT the upper and lower absorbers and washers for damage or wear. CHECK the body mount brackets for damage. CHECK the nuts and bolts are tightened to specifications. TIGHTEN as necessary.
  • Damaged or worn subframe mounts.
  • INSPECT the upper and lower absorbers for damage or wear. CHECK the subframe for damage. CHECK the nuts and bolts are tightened to specifications. TIGHTEN as necessary. REFER to ENGINE .
SYMPTOM TABLE - STEERING NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Steering grunt or shudder - occurs when turning into or out of a turn at low speeds (temperature sensitive)
  • Steering gear or power steering hoses.
  • Steering System clonk - hydraulic knocking sound
  • Air in the steering hydraulic system.
  • Power steering pump moan - loud humming noise occurs when the steering wheel is rotated to the stop position. Produces a 120-600 Hz frequency that changes with rpm
  • Power steering hose grounded out to chassis.
  • INSPECT the power steering hoses. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Aerated fluid.
  • Steering gear isolators.
  • INSPECT the isolators for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Low fluid.
  • CHECK the fluid level. REFILL as necessary.
  • Power steering pump brackets loose or misaligned.
  • CHECK bolts, brackets and bracket alignment. TIGHTEN bolts to specification. REPAIR or INSTALL new brackets as necessary. REFER to POWER STEERING .
  • Steering gear clunk - occurs only while cornering over a bump (can be temperature sensitive)
  • Steering gear.
  • Feedback (rattle, chuckle or knocking noise in the steering gear) - a condition where roughness is felt in the steering wheel when the vehicle is driven over rough surfaces
  • Column intermediate/flexible shaft joints damaged or worn.
  • Loose, damaged or worn tie-rod ends.
  • TIGHTEN the nuts to specification or INSTALL new tie-rod ends as necessary. REFER to INSTALLATION .
  • Steering gear insulators or mounting bolts loose or damaged.
  • Steering column intermediate shaft bolts are loose.
  • Steering column damaged or worn.
  • Loose suspension bushings, bolts or ball joints.
  • Feedback (nibble at the steering wheel) - a condition where slight rotational movement is felt in the steering wheel when the vehicle is driven over rough or grooved surfaces
  • Lateral runout in the tire or wheel.
  • Yoke spring in the steering gear.
  • CHECK TSBs for revised yoke spring for applicable vehicles.
  • Accessory drive belt squeal/chirp - when rotating the steering wheel from stop to stop
  • Loose or worn accessory drive belt.
  • Power steering gear hiss
  • Steering column intermediate/flexible shaft-to-steering gear is binding or misaligned.
  • Grounded or loose steering column boot at the dash panel.
  • REPAIR as necessary.
  • Damaged or worn steering gear input shaft and valve.
  • Steering column rattle
  • Loose bolts or attaching brackets.
  • TIGHTEN the bolts to specifications.
  • Loose, worn or insufficiently lubricated column bearings.
  • Steering shaft insulators damaged or worn.
  • Intermediate/flexible shaft compressed or extended.
  • INSPECT the rubber spider coupling for damage. INSTALL a new intermediate/flexible shaft. REFER to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
  • Steering column squeak or cracks
  • Insufficient lubricated steering shaft bushings.
  • LUBRICATE the steering shaft and shaft tube seals.
  • Loose or misaligned steering column shrouds.
  • TIGHTEN or ALIGN the steering column shrouds.
  • Steering wheel rubbing against steering column shrouds.
  • REPOSITION the steering column shrouds.
  • Insufficient lubricated speed control slip ring.
  • LUBRICATE the speed control slip ring.
  • Upper or lower bearing sleeve out of position.
  • REPOSITION the bearing sleeves.
  • Power steering pump noisy
  • Incorrect assembly of components.
  • Imperfections on the outside diameter or end surface of the power steering pump rotor.
  • Damaged or worn power steering pump rotor splines.
  • A crack on the inner surface of the power steering pump cam.
  • Interference between the power steering pump rotor and cam.
  • Damaged or worn power steering pump rotor and pressure plates.
  • Power steering pump swish noise
  • Power steering fluid flow into the bypass valve of the pump valve housing with fluid temperature below 54°C (130°F).
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Power steering pump whine noise
  • Aerated fluid.
  • CHECK for a leak in the system. PURGE the air from the system. REFER to WHINE .
  • Damaged power steering pump cam.
  • Damaged valve cover O-ring seal.
  • Power steering pump clicking (mechanical) noise
  • Power steering pump rotor slippers too long, excessive rotor slipper-to-slot clearance or damaged or worn rotor assembly.
  • Power steering pump clatter noise
  • Damaged corners on the outside diameter or the power steering rotor or distorted rotor slipper ring.
SYMPTOM TABLE - SUSPENSION NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Squeak or grunt - noise from the front suspension, occurs more in cold ambient temperatures. More noticeable over rough roads or when turning
  • Front stabilizer bar insulators.
  • Under these conditions, the noise is acceptable. CHECK TSBs.
  • Clunk - noise from the front suspension, occurs in and out of turns
  • Loose front struts or shocks.
  • Clunk - noise from the rear suspension, occurs when shifting from REVERSE to DRIVE
  • Loose rear suspension components.
  • INSPECT for loose or damaged rear suspension components. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to REAR SUSPENSION .
  • Click or pop - noise from the front suspension. More noticeable over rough roads or over bumps
  • Worn or damaged ball joints.
  • CARRY OUT a ball joint inspection. INSTALL new ball joints or control arms as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION .
  • Click or pop (front wheel drive [FWD] vehicles) - noise occurs when vehicle is turning
  • Worn or damaged ball joints.
  • CARRY OUT a ball joint inspection. INSTALL new ball joints or control arms as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION .
  • Click or snap - occurs when accelerating around a corner
  • Damaged or worn outboard CV joint.
  • INSPECT the outboard CV joint and boot. REPAIR or INSTALL a new CV joint as necessary. REFER to FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS .
  • Front suspension noise - a squeak, creak or rattle noise. Occurs mostly over bumps or rough roads
  • Steering components.
  • Loose or bent front struts or shock absorbers.
  • Damaged spring or spring mounts.
  • Damaged or worn control/radius arm bushings.
  • Worn or damaged stabilizer bar bushings or links.
  • Rear suspension noise - a squeak, creak or rattle noise. Occurs mostly over bumps or rough roads
  • Loose or bent rear shock absorbers.
  • Damaged spring or spring mounts.
  • Damaged or worn control arm bushings.
  • Worn or damaged stabilizer bar bushings or links.
  • Shudder - occurs during acceleration from a slow speed or stop
  • Incorrect or high CV joint operating angle.
  • Damaged or worn front suspension components.
  • CHECK for a loose stabilizer bar, damaged or loose strut/strut bushings or loose or worn ball joints. INSPECT the steering linkage for wear or damage. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
  • Shimmy - most noticeable on coast/deceleration. Also hard steering condition
  • Excessive positive caster.
  • CHECK the caster alignment angle. CORRECT as necessary. REFER to CASTER .
SYMPTOM TABLE - TIRE NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Tire noise - hum/moan at constant speeds
  • Abnormal wear patterns.
  • SPIN the tire and CHECK for tire wear. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. INSPECT for damaged/worn suspension components. CARRY OUT wheel alignment.
  • Tire noise - noise tone lowers as the vehicle speed is lowered
  • Out-of-balance tire.
  • BALANCE the tire and ROAD TEST. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to ROAD TEST .
  • Tire noise - ticking noise, changes with speed
  • Nail puncture or stone in tire tread.
  • INSPECT the tire. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Wheel and tire - vibration and noise concern is directly related to vehicle speed and is not affected by acceleration, coasting or decelerating
  • Damaged or worn tire.
  • Tire wobble or shudder - occurs at lower speeds
  • Damaged wheel bearings.
  • SPIN the tire and CHECK for abnormal wheel bearing play or roughness. ADJUST or INSTALL new wheel bearings as necessary. REFER to REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
  • Damaged wheel.
  • INSPECT the wheel for damage. INSTALL a new wheel as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION .
  • Damaged or worn suspension components.
  • INSPECT the suspension components for wear or damage. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Loose wheel nuts.
  • Damaged or uneven tire wear.
  • SPIN the tire and CHECK for abnormal tire wear or damage. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to TIRE RUNOUT .
  • Tire shimmy or shake - occurs at lower speeds
  • Wheel/tire out of balance.
  • BALANCE the wheel/tire assembly.
  • Uneven tire wear.
  • CHECK for abnormal tire wear. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to TIRE RUNOUT .
  • Excessive radial runout of wheel or tire.
  • CARRY OUT a radial runout test of the wheel and tire. INSTALL a new tire as necessary. REFER to TIRE AND WHEEL RUNOUT .
  • Worn or damaged wheel studs or elongated stud holes.
  • INSPECT the wheel studs and wheels. INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to FRONT SUSPENSION for the front wheels or REAR SUSPENSION for the rear wheels.
  • Excessive lateral runout of the wheel or tire.
  • CARRY OUT a lateral runout test of the wheel and tire. CHECK the wheel, tire and hub. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to TIRE AND WHEEL RUNOUT .
  • Foreign material between the brake disc and hub or in the brake disc fins.
  • CLEAN the mounting surfaces of the brake disc and hub. CHECK the brake disc fins for material.
  • High speed shake or shimmy - occurs at high speeds
  • Excessive wheel hub runout.
  • Damaged or worn tires.
  • Damaged or worn wheel bearings.
  • Worn or damaged suspension or steering linkage components.
  • Brake disc or drum imbalance.
SYMPTOM TABLE - TRANSMISSION (AUTOMATIC) NOISE/VIBRATION

Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Rattle - occurs at idle or at light acceleration from a stop
  • Damaged engine or transmission mounts.
  • CHECK the powertrain/drivetrain mounts for damage. REFER to ENGINE .
  • A loose front exhaust pipe heat shield.
  • REPAIR or INSTALL a new heat shield as necessary.
  • Loose inspection plate or dust cover plate.
  • Loose flexplate to converter nuts.
  • Whine - pitch increases with vehicle speed. Starts in 1st and 2nd gear, decreases or goes away at higher gears
  • Damaged or worn low one-way clutch.
  • Damaged or worn intermediate one-way clutch.
  • Friction elements.
  • Damaged or worn planetary or sun gear.
  • Whine - the pitch changes with engine speed
  • A worn or damaged component.
  • CARRY OUT the Engine Accessory Test. REPAIR or INSTALL new accessory drive components as necessary.
  • Incorrect fluid level.
  • Partially blocked filter.
  • Worn or damaged torque converter.
  • CARRY OUT the torque converter service and replacement check. REFER to TORQUE CONVERTER .
  • Worn or damaged front pump.
  • Whine - pitch changes with vehicle speed
  • Speedometer cable or gears.
  • REPAIR or INSTALL new cables or gears as necessary.
  • Whine/moan type noise - pitch increases or changes with vehicle speed
  • Damaged engine or transmission mount.
  • CHECK the powertrain/drivetrain mounts for damage. REFER to ENGINE .
  • U-joints worn or damaged.
  • INSPECT the U-joints for wear or damage. INSTALL new U-joints as necessary.
  • Damaged or worn differential ring and pinion.
  • INSPECT the differential ring and pinion for damage. CARRY OUT the Checking Tooth Contact Pattern and Condition of the Ring and Pinion component test. REPAIR or INSTALL a new differential ring and pinion as necessary.
  • Planetary gears nicked or chipped.
  • Whistle - noise is high pitched, constant. Changes in pitch with throttle position
  • Hydraulic pressure in the main control.
  • Incorrect band/clutch apply pressure.
  • CARRY OUT the line pressure tests. REPAIR or INSTALL components as necessary. REFER to PRESSURE TEST .
  • Worn or damaged torque converter.
  • Clunk - occurs when shifting from PARK to a DRIVE or REVERSE position
  • Damaged powertrain mounts.
  • Damaged or worn pinion bearings.
  • Worn or galled driveshaft slip yoke splines.
  • CLEAN and INSPECT the splines of the yoke. INSTALL a new slip yoke as necessary.
  • Worn friction elements or excessive clutch pack end plate play.
  • INSPECT the transmission for wear. CHECK that all end play and clearances are within specification. REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE - 6 SPEED .
  • Bump - occurs when shifting from PARK to a DRIVE or REVERSE position. Similar to Clunk but with no sound
  • Initial gear engagement.
  • Acceptable condition.
  • Buzz or hiss
  • Worn or damaged main control solenoids or valves.
  • Using a transmission tester, ACTIVATE the solenoids to duplicate sound. INSTALL new components as necessary. REFER to AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE - 6 SPEED .
  • Vibration - a high frequency (20-80 Hz) that is felt through the seat or gear shifter. Changes with engine speed
  • Transmission cooler lines grounded out.
  • CHECK the transmission cooler lines. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Flexplate to torque converter nuts loose.
  • Fluid filler tube grounded out.
  • CHECK the fluid filler tube. REPAIR as necessary.
  • Shift cable incorrectly routed, grounded out or loose.
  • Shutter or chatter - occurs with light to medium acceleration from low speeds or a stop
  • Electrical inputs/outputs.
  • Vehicle wiring harness.
  • Incorrect inputs/outputs from the powertrain control module (PCM), digital transmission range (TR) sensor, brake pedal position (BPP) sensor, throttle position (TP) sensor, transmission speed sensor (TSS), output speed shaft (OSS) sensor or the torque converter clutch (TCC).
  • CARRY OUT a Torque Converter Clutch Operation Test. RUN on-board diagnostics or self-test. REFER to TORQUE CONVERTER . CLEAR the DTC's, road test and rerun on-board diagnostics or self-test.
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