Removal and Installation
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2010 Lincoln MKZ and 2010 Ford Fusion. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE:
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, may cause engine failure.
NOTE:
Early build engines have 11 fastener valve covers, late built engines have 9 fastener valve covers. Do not attempt to install bolts in the 2 empty late build valve cover holes or damage to the valve cover will occur.
All vehicles
- Remove the engine from the vehicle. For additional information, refer to ENGINE .
- Remove the 8 bolts and the flywheel.
- Remove the crankshaft sensor ring.
- Mount the engine on a suitable engine stand.NOTE: Install the engine stand bolts into the cylinder block only. Do not install the bolts into the oil pan.
- If equipped, detach the block heater wiring harness retainer from the upper intake manifold.
- If equipped, remove the heat shield and disconnect the block heater electrical connector.
- If equipped, detach the block heater wiring harness retainer from the power steering reservoir hose and the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) hose.
- Remove the block heater wiring harness from the engine.
- Disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve.
- Disconnect the Throttle Body (TB) electrical connector.
- Detach the wiring harness retainers from the upper intake manifold.
- Remove the upper intake manifold support bracket bolt.
- Remove the 6 bolts and the upper intake manifold.
- Discard the gaskets.
NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage. - Disconnect the PSP
switch electrical connector.
Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicles
- Disconnect the RH Catalyst Monitor Sensor (CMS) sensor electrical connector.
All vehicles
- Disconnect the RH Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) solenoid electrical connector.
- Disconnect the 3 RH coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Detach all of the wiring harness retainers from the RH valve cover and stud bolts.
- Disconnect the LH CMS sensor electrical connector.
- Disconnect the LH VCT solenoid electrical connector.
- Disconnect the 3 LH coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Detach all of the wiring harness retainers from the LH valve cover and stud bolts.
- Remove the A/C compressor nut and stud.NOTE: The A/C compressor must remain bolted to the cylinder block prior to installing the oil pan.
- Detach the PSP hose retainer from the engine lifting eye.
- Remove the PSP hose bracket nut.
- Remove the 3 bolts and position the power steering pump aside.
- Remove the 3 bolts and the accessory drive belt tensioner.
- Remove the 4 nuts (3 shown in illustration) and the LH catalytic converter.
- Discard the nuts and the gasket.
FWD vehicles
- Remove the 4 nuts and the RH catalytic converter.
- Discard the nuts and the gasket.
All vehicles
- Remove the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater.
- Allow coolant to drain from the cylinder block.
- Remove the LH cylinder block drain plug.
- Allow coolant to drain from the cylinder block.
- Remove the 6 bolts and the 6 coil-on-plugs.NOTE: LH shown in illustration, RH similar.
- Remove the 2 nuts and the wiring harness retaining bracket.
Early build vehicles
- Loosen the 11 stud bolts and remove the LH valve cover.
- Discard the gasket.
- Loosen the bolt, the 10 stud bolts and remove the RH valve cover.
- Discard the gasket.
Late build vehicles
- Loosen the 9 stud bolts and remove the LH valve cover.
- Discard the gasket.
- Loosen the 9 stud bolts and remove the RH valve cover.
- Discard the gasket.
All vehicles
- Inspect the VCT
solenoid seals and the spark plug tube seals. Remove any damaged seals.
- Using the VCT Spark Plug Tube Seal Remover and Handle, remove the seal(s).
NOTE: VCT solenoid seal removal shown in illustration, spark plug tube seal removal similar. - Using the Strap Wrench, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and washer.
- Discard the bolt.
- Using the 3 Jaw Puller, remove the crankshaft pulley.
- Using the Oil Seal Remover, remove and discard the crankshaft front seal.
- Remove the 2 bolts and the engine mount bracket.
- Remove the 2 engine mount studs.NOTE: Only use hand tools to remove the studs.
- Remove the 3 bolts and the engine mount bracket.
- Remove the 22 engine front cover bolts.
- Install 6 of the engine front cover bolts (finger-tight) into the 6 threaded holes in the engine front cover in the following sequence.
- Tighten the bolts one turn at a time in a crisscross pattern until the engine front cover-to-cylinder block seal is released.
- Remove the engine front cover.
- Remove the 16 oil pan bolts.
- Install 2 of the oil pan bolts (finger-tight) into the 2 threaded holes in the oil pan.
- Alternately tighten the 2 bolts one turn at a time until the oil pan-to-cylinder block seal is released.
- Remove the oil pan.
- Alternately tighten the 2 bolts one turn at a time until the oil pan-to-cylinder block seal is released.
- Clean the engine front cover and oil pan using a 3M Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white, part number 07528) in a suitable tool turning at the recommended speed of 15,000 rpm.
- Thoroughly wash the engine front cover and oil pan to remove any foreign material, including any abrasive particles created during the cleaning process.
NOTE: Only use a 3M Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white, part number 07528) to clean the engine front cover and oil pan. Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes or any other power abrasive disk to clean the crankshaft rear seal retainer plate. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. - Clean all engine sealing surfaces of the cylinder block in the following sequence.
- Remove any large deposits of silicone or gasket material.
- Apply silicone gasket remover and allow to set for several minutes.
- Remove the silicone gasket remover. A second application of silicone gasket remover may be required if residual traces of silicone or gasket material remain.
- Apply metal surface prep to remove any remaining traces of oil or coolant and to prepare the surfaces to bond. Do not attempt to make the metal shiny. Some staining of the metal surfaces is normal.
- Make sure the 2 locating dowel pins are seated correctly in the cylinder block.
NOTE: Place clean, lint-free shop towels over exposed engine cavities. Carefully remove the towels so foreign material is not dropped into the engine. Any foreign material (including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces) that enters the oil passages or the oil pan, can cause engine failure.NOTE: Do not use wire brushes, power abrasive discs or 3M Roloc® Bristle Disk (2-in white, part number 07528) to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges that make leak paths. They also cause contamination that will cause premature engine failure. Remove all traces of the gasket.