Cylinder Bore - De-Glaze
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2011 RAM Pickup and 2011 RAM Cab & Chassis. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
- New piston rings may not seat in glazed cylinder bores.
- De-glazing gives the bore the correct surface finish required to seat the rings. The size of the bore is not changed by proper de-glazing.
- Cover the lube and tappet holes in the top of the block with waterproof tape.
- If crankshaft is installed, wrap connecting rod journals with clean cloth. Cover cloth with waterproof tape.
- A correctly honed surface will have a crosshatch appearance with the lines at 15° to 25° angles. For the rough hone, use 80 grit honing stones. To finish hone, use 280 grit honing stones.
- Use a drill, a fine grit Flex-hone and a mixture of equal parts of mineral spirits and SAE 30W engine oil to de-glaze the bores.
- The crosshatch angle is a function of drill speed and how fast the hone is moved vertically.
- Vertical strokes MUST be smooth continuous passes along the full length of the bore.
- Inspect the bore after 10 strokes.
- Use a strong solution of hot water and laundry detergent to clean the bores. Clean the cylinder bores immediately after de-glazing.
- Rinse the bores until the detergent is removed and blow the block dry with compressed air.
- Check the bore cleanliness by wiping with a white, lint free, lightly oiled cloth. If grit residue is still present, repeat the cleaning process until all residue is removed. Wash the bores and the complete block assembly with solvent and dry with compressed air. Place a clean shop towel around the top main bearing saddle to deflect water and residue from piston cooling nozzels. Remove directed piston cooling nozzles if installed.
- Be sure to remove the tape covering the lube holes, rod journals, and piston cooling nozzles after the cleaning process is complete.