Master Cylinder, Brake: Removal: Right-Hand-Drive
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2013 Dodge Avenger and 2013 Chrysler 200. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
NOTE:
Before proceeding, refer to WARNING .
CAUTION:
The vacuum in the power brake booster must be depleted before removing the master cylinder to avoid damaging the master cylinder and to prevent inhalation of the o-ring or any other contamination into the booster. The preferred method is to pump the brake pedal while the engine is not running until the brake pedal becomes firm. An alternative method is to remove and immediately reinstall the check valve located on the booster. If the check valve is removed, special care should be taken to ensure that the grommet is not damaged and remains seated, the check valve is dry and free of debris, and that contaminates cannot be ingested during removal.
- With the engine not running, pump the brake pedal 4-5 strokes until the pedal feel is firm.
- Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery and isolate the cable.
- Remove the engine appearance cover.
- If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the clamp and slide the clutch actuator hose (2) off the reservoir port (1).
- Disconnect the primary (2) and secondary (1) brake tubes at the master cylinder outlet ports. Install plugs at both of the open brake tube outlets on the master cylinder (3).
- Clean the area around where the master cylinder (2) attaches to the power brake booster (1) using a suitable brake cleaner such as Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner or an equivalent.
- Remove the booster vacuum hose routing clip (4) from the master cylinder mounting stud.
- Remove the two nuts (3) attaching the master cylinder (2) to the power brake booster (1).
- Slide the master cylinder straight out of the power brake booster, then disconnect the wiring harness connector (1) from the brake fluid level switch (2).
- Remove the master cylinder from the engine compartment.